The British have their Christmas pudding, the Spanish indulge in the honeyed-almond nougat treat turrón, and the French—among their holiday delicacies—devour chestnuts in many forms, from stuffing for roast goose to ice cream.
“It’s almost the same as when [Americans] smell pine, Christmas cookies or candy canes,” says cookbook author and food writer Aleksandra Crapanzano. “It’s deeply associated with Christmas.”
In her latest cookbook, Gâteau: The Surprising Simplicity of French Cakes (published Sept. 27), Crapanzano brings readers on a tour of the homemade cakes of France—the savory, the sweet, the boozy and the in-between—including this uncomplicated, yet delicious chestnut cake (gâteau aux marrons). Having grown up in Paris, Crapanzano shares fond memories of snacking her way through the arrondissements, where having something a little sweet every day is a way of life.
To Crapanzano, the cakes of France are pleasurable because of their simplicity. During the pandemic, she was drawn to baking more and used this book as a way to “write her way home.” At a certain point, she realized that there were many cookbooks about elaborate French pâtisserie, but not about everyday French treats whipped up at home.
“These are classic French cakes that kind of everybody lives with in France and learns early and knows how to do; there's just never been a book, which is insane because they're delicious,” remarks Crapanzano. “They're incredibly accessible. In writing this book, I also wanted to demystify the idea that the French either are born with these culinary superpowers and come home and whip up these unbelievably complex things, or that they only shop at pâtisseries. The fact is the French are practical and they're frugal.”
Gâteau emphasizes the savoir faire of French cooks and the idea of making the right thing for the moment: Sometimes there isn’t a need for an elaborate cake with buttercream roses. These cakes are still presented with care, but they don’t impose on the baker.
“There is a point where it becomes too self-conscious,” says Crapanzano. “Savoir faire is that know-how of ‘I’m going to make something because I know what it is going to taste like, I know it is delicious, and it takes only 30 minutes.’ There is a lot less fuss.”
While some chestnuts come from the Armagnac region (and pair well with the brandy from there), half of all French chestnuts hail from the Ardèche in the southeast and are harvested in October and November. However, they’re not really eaten at any other time of the year, partly because the French can be stubbornly traditional.
“It almost plays into the idea of seduction,” muses Crapanzano. “If you actually have something once a year, you spend the rest of the year wanting it … [These] ‘rules’ exist in part so that actually there is this magic—they’re not rules for the sake of rules, they’re rules for the sake of something bigger and more wonderful.”
While bûche de Nöel—a sponge cake rolled with buttercream and decorated like a Yule log—is a typical sight in pâtisseries across the country, it’s rather high maintenance. In contrast, this chestnut cake only takes 15 minutes to assemble. Using a base of chestnut puree and almond flour creates a soft, moist texture, but incorporating lightly whipped egg whites keeps the cake airy. Based on a traditional “spiced cake” and accented with a splash of liquor, this recipe is intended to be prepared in advance to let the flavors deepen—“the same principle as with Christmas pudding”—so it’s perfect for baking ahead and pulling out after a fantastic feast. But there’s no shame if you make this cake just to slowly slice it throughout the day, polishing it off sliver by sliver.
Chestnuts are an ideal pairing for Armagnac and Cognac, yet this cake’s simplicity also makes it a great match for a range of dessert wine styles. Below are five pairings that we at Wine Spectator think are excellent ways to sweeten the season.
French Chestnut Cake (Gâteau aux Marrons)
Excerpted from Gâteau: The Surprising Simplicity of French Cakes Copyright (c) 2022. Used with permission of the publisher, Simon & Schuster. All rights reserved.
Ingredients
- 7 ounces (or 200 grams) sweetened chestnut purée, preferably from Clément Faugier (available online, typically in cans)
- 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon (or 150 grams) confectioners’ sugar
- 7 tablespoons (100 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature
- 3 extra-large eggs
- 1 tablespoon rum, Cognac or Armagnac, or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1 1⁄3 cups (150 grams) almond flour
- 1⁄2 teaspoon baking powder
- 1⁄4 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 4 extra-large egg whites
Preparation
1. Preheat the oven to 350° F. Generously butter and flour the sides of an 8-inch cake pan and line the bottom with a round of parchment.
2. In a stand mixer or using handheld electric beaters, whisk the chestnut purée, confectioners’ sugar, butter, eggs and rum at medium-high speed for about 5 minutes, or until pale and smooth. Add the almond flour, baking powder and salt and beat to combine.
3. In a clean mixing bowl using clean beaters, beat the egg whites until nearly stiff. Mix a quarter into the chestnut batter to lighten it, then fold in the remaining egg whites.
4. Pour into the prepared pan and bake for 50 minutes, or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Allow the cake to come to room temperature on a cooling rack before unmolding it onto a cake plate. Serve at room temperature with a dollop of crème fraîche or Chantilly.
Five Desert Wines to Cap the Holidays
Note: The following list is a selection of outstanding and very good wines from recently rated releases. More options can be found in our Wine Ratings Search.
DONNAFUGATA
Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé 2019
Score: 94 | $48/500ml
WS Review: This gorgeous sweetie is the color of burnished gold and melts like cotton candy on the palate. Exudes aromas and flavors of baked apricot, ground cardamom, mandarin orange jam, clover honey and a rich hint of graham cracker. Vibrant acidity frames the long and well-spiced, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2032. 425 cases imported. From Italy.–Alison Napjus
DISZNÓKÓ
Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos 2013
Score: 93 | $50/500ml
WS Review: Round and creamy, with hints of praline and vanilla-infused pastry cream enriching the poached apricot, glazed clementine and candied ginger flavors. Features a citrus peel acidity that keeps this well-balanced and refreshed on the spiced finish. Drink now through 2028. 6,000 cases made, 500 cases imported. From Hungary.–A.N.
CHÂTEAU COUTET
Barsac 2020
Score: 91 | $43
WS Review: A flattering, plump sweetie, with baked apple, pineapple chutney, graham cracker, ginger, toasted almond and pie crust notes. Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. Drink now through 2035. 5,000 cases made. From France. –James Molesworth
GRAHAM
Late Bottled Port 2017
Score: 91 | $28
WS Review: Inviting, with plum cake and steeped raisin and plum notes laced with licorice snap and fruitcake accents. There's a solid spine for support, but this is approachable now. Try decanting or even giving a touch more time in the cellar. Drink now through 2026. 25,000 cases imported. From Portugal.–J.M.
EL MAESTRO SIERRA
Oloroso Jerez 15 Years Old NV (released in 2022)
Score: 90 | $22/375ML
WS Review: This combines toasted white sesame, walnut and hazelnut husk and singed sandalwood notes for an alluring aromatic and taste profile, while a taut, bracing feel provides pleasant austerity through the finish. Drink now. From Spain.–J.M.
