Labor Day serves as the unofficial marker that summer is winding down—a last long weekend to laze around the grill with family, indulging in hot dogs, hamburgers and juicy summer fruit. To make the most of those succulent peaches and plums, instead of just saving them for dessert, toss some sliced stone fruit on the grill and make this smoky but fresh salad from chef Rogelio Garcia’s first cookbook, Convivir: Modern Mexican Cuisine in California’s Wine Country (coming to booksellers on Sept. 17 and available for pre-order).
Convivir finds inspiration throughout Garcia’s career, from teenage dishwasher to the executive chef of one of Napa Valley’s most exciting kitchens: Auro, a Mexican-influenced, fine-dining restaurant tucked away inside the Four Seasons Napa Valley that earned a Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence in 2023 and 2024. The title comes from the Spanish word “to live together,” representing the harmony among ingredients and influences that is the central tenet of Garcia’s recipes.
His mother crossed the border from Mexico to the U.S. in 1988, bringing then two-year-old Garcia and his sister with her. “The realization that my mother left her homeland and every family member, friend and relationship so her children had a chance to chase the American dream created a fire that burns deep inside of me,” Garcia writes in the introduction. “I feel that my mother passed me a torch, and I hope and pray that my two sons, Daniel and Christian, understand this so that I can pass the torch on to them.”
Garcia grew up in California’s wine country and started off working in restaurant kitchens to help pay rent. Later on, he gained experience at some of the most acclaimed restaurants in Northern California, working at Wine Spectator Grand Award winners the French Laundry in Napa Valley and Spruce in San Francisco. Influenced by the French-style training he received, his tasting menu at Auro incorporates traditional techniques and luxurious ingredients such as Périgord black truffles, seven-day dry-aged squab and coral red Kinki fish straight from Hokkaido, along with Mexican touches like a mandarin aguachile.
“Growing up, I felt like I was steered away from Mexico because there wasn’t a lot of prominence here of any other culture besides anything from Europe,” says Garcia. “But researching the book, talking to historians, I started adding [more of Mexican culture] to Auro. I grew up in Northern California, so I want to be respectful but adventurous and innovative, rethinking what Mexican food is.”
Convivir incorporates Garcia’s culinary training with the flavors and ingredients he grew up with for modern takes on ceviches, sopes, tacos, tamales, tostadas and much more. Think a vivid green summer pozole, with seared scallops buoyed by hominy, or ribeyes slathered with black-sesame tinted mole. One dish that had to be in the book? “My mother’s Spanish rice. It’s something we always had at the table,” says Garcia. “She’s an amazing cook. As I was writing this Mexican cookbook, I was thinking of all the things that I grew up eating. I definitely wanted to highlight those.”
Grilled stone fruit salads are becoming a staple of American cookouts, but one thing that sets Garcia’s salad apart is the mezcal vinaigrette, which combines a smoky, roasted note with a citrusy tang. “With stone fruit, I want to highlight the fruit,” says Garcia. “I would always pair it with a light vinaigrette, made with something like apple cider vinegar or Champagne. I wanted to give that Mexican twist—so how about mezcal? I think everybody loves mezcal.” Made by mixing splashes of mezcal and orange juice with a base of olive oil and red wine vinegar, the dressing is permeated with the spirit’s flavor without it being overwhelming. It’s a wonderful complement to the charred peaches and plums, but also briny Niçoise olives, crunchy cucumbers and cherry tomatoes, fragrant shaved fennel and salty crumbles of cotija cheese.
To pair with this salad, Garcia suggests a bottle from Napa: the Scalon Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2022, which he describes as zesty, with “a vibrant nose.” Scalon was co-founded in 2010 by Jesus Espinoza, the vineyard manager for Caldwell Vineyard, and Cruz Calderon, who became friends with him while working on the construction of a new cave at Caldwell. With winemaker Julien Fayard, the two now create a line of red, white and rosé wines from a vineyard Espinoza helped plant in the Coombsville district next to Caldwell more than 30 years ago, as well as from other appellations.
For more options, Wine Spectator’s editors selected 12 other stellar California Sauvignon Blancs whose citrus and orchard fruit flavors complement a summer-fruit salad and can also handle a bit of smoke. These bottlings are great for opening on the water, in your backyard or wherever you decide to kick up your feet this Labor Day.
Grilled Stone Fruit Salad with Mezcal Vinaigrette
Excerpted from Convivir: Modern Mexican Cuisine in California’s Wine Country by Rogelio Garcia and Andréa Lawson Gray (Abrams Books). Copyright © 2024
Salad ingredients
- 1/2 cup (50 grams) thinly sliced red onion
- 1/4 cup (60 milliliters) olive oil
- Pinch of sugar
- Kosher salt
- 2 ripe but firm peaches, pitted and cut into eighths
- 2 ripe but firm plums, pitted and cut into quarters
- 6 cups arugula
- 1 fennel bulb, trimmed and thinly shaved lengthwise
- 1 large English cucumber, peeled and cut into coins 1/2 inch (12 millimeters) thick
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 1/2 cup mezcal vinaigrette (recipe below)
- 12 cherry tomatoes, cut in half
- 1/2 cup pitted Niçoise olives
- 1/4 cup slivered almonds
- 1/2 cup (50 grams) grated queso Cotija or Parmesan cheese
To make the salad
1. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). In a large bowl, toss the onions with 2 tablespoons of the oil, the sugar and a pinch of salt. Spread the onions into an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast, stirring once or twice, until soft and browned, about 20 minutes.
2. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for direct cooking over medium-high heat, or heat a cast-iron griddle over medium-high heat.
3. Brush the peach and plum slices lightly on both sides with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Place the fruit pieces on the grill rack directly over the fire or on the griddle and cook for about 1 minute on each side, turning once, or until lightly etched with grill marks. The timing will depend on the ripeness and size of each piece. As the pieces are ready, transfer them to a sheet pan and set aside.
4. In a large bowl, combine the arugula, fennel, cucumber and the roasted red onion. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and toss lightly to season the cucumber and fennel. Add the vinaigrette and toss to coat.
5. Divide the arugula mixture evenly among four large salad bowls. Arrange the cherry tomato halves over the top. Place the peaches and plums around the edge of each plate, with the salad in the middle, then finish with the olives, almonds and cheese. Serves 4.
Vinaigrette ingredients
- 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
- 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice
- 2 tablespoons mezcal
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 2 cups blended oil (such as olive and canola), mild olive oil, or other light-flavored oil
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
To make the vinaigrette
In a bowl, whisk together vinegar, orange juice, mezcal and sugar until the sugar dissolves. Slowly drizzle in the oil while whisking continuously to form an emulsion. Season with salt and pepper. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Makes 2 1/2 cups.
12 California Sauvignon Blancs to Close Out Summer
Note: The following list is a selection of outstanding and very good wines from recently rated releases. More options can be found in our Wine Ratings Search here.
DRY CREEK
Sauvignon Blanc Dry Creek Valley 2022
Score: 92 | $25
WS Review: Fragrant, with notes of lemon basil and lemongrass up front, showing hints of celery seed that complement the generous core of pear, peach and lemon-lime flavors. Reveals hints of tropical fruit and fresh-grated ginger on the crisp finish, where the wine gains momentum.—MaryAnn Worobiec
CUVAISON
Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley Los Carneros 2022
Score: 91 | $28
WS Review: Distinctive, with a spicy, fragrant edge of lemongrass, lemon thyme and candied ginger elements highlighting a core of pomelo, lime and fresh apple flavors on a sleek, refreshing body.—M.W.
ST. SUPÉRY
Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2022
Score: 91 | $28
WS Review: Vivid and juicy, with intense passion fruit, lime and peach notes, plus details of white tea, ruby grapefruit and wild fennel on a sleek, refreshing frame.—M.W.
MASON
Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley Yount Mill Vineyard 2022
Score: 91 | $23
WS Review: Elegant and supple, with Key lime, lemon zest and mango notes that mingle with a touch of candied ginger and honeysuckle on a smooth and refreshing frame.—M.W.
MARGERUM
Sauvignon Blanc Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara Sybarite 2022
Score: 90 | $26
WS Review: Intense, fresh and crisp, with yuzu, pomelo and lemon zest notes on a lean frame, expanding into details of matcha, white pepper and sea salt. Mouthwatering finish.—M.W.
HANNA
Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley 2022
Score: 90 | $24
WS Review: Robust, juicy and generous, with pear, ruby grapefruit and Honeycrisp apple flavors that mingle with a touch of lime sorbet, pear and lemongrass on the refreshing finish.—M.W.
EMMOLO
Sauvignon Blanc Solano-Napa Counties 2022
Score: 90 | $22
WS Review: An elegant version, with graceful expressions of Meyer lemon, yuzu and lemon blossoms, plus notes of grated ginger. Fresh and juicy, this white is sleek and refreshing.—M.W.
LA CREMA
Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma County 2022
Score: 89 | $25
WS Review: Silky and elegant, with pear, lime and lemon zest flavors and Honeycrisp apple notes, revealing accents of fresh ginger on the finish.—M.W.
DECOY
Sauvignon Blanc California 2022
Score: 88 | $20
WS Review: Shows generous peach, mango, pear and tangerine flavors, with hints of spices and green tea. Reveals firm, refreshing acidity on the finish.—M.W.
CONUNDRUM
White California 2021
Score: 88 | $16
WS Review: Appealing and fragrant, with green apple candy, peach and mango notes that are light and fresh on a smooth, juicy frame, while salted butterscotch accents linger on the finish. Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Sémillon and Viognier.—M.W.
CLINE
Sauvignon Blanc North Coast 2022
Score: 88 | $15
WS Review: This white features crisp, refreshing Key lime, lemon curd and tangerine flavors, ending with details of lemon verbena on the finish.—M.W.
DANCING CROW
Sauvignon Blanc Big Valley District-Lake County 2022
Score: 87 | $18
WS Review: Firm up front, with citrus zest and peach flavors that mingle nicely with herbal accents of tarragon and lemon thyme. Reveals firm, fresh acidity and sea salt minerality on the finish.—M.W.
