Upon seeing the beautiful, bright cover of The Jewish Holiday Table: A World of Recipes, Traditions and Stories to Celebrate All Year Long, one might immediately assume this new book is full of traditional recipes for every occasion, from the High Holy Days of Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur to the springtime celebrations of Purim and Pesach (Passover). While the book certainly has all these things, it is much more than just a compilation of recipes.
“This is also a history book,” author Naama Shefi tells Wine Spectator. “It connects us to the shared stories that make Jews a people, and it does so through the powerful medium of food. My hope is that this book helps everyone expand their perception of what Jewish food is and who Jewish people are.”
Shefi is one of the founders of the Jewish Food Society, a non-profit organization that, in their own words, “works to preserve, celebrate, and revitalize Jewish culinary heritage from around the world in order to provide a deeper connection to Jewish life.” Since 2017, the group has been building an online collection of family recipes from across the Jewish diaspora, and this year the project has finally made it onto paper, with the publication of The Jewish Holiday Table.
For Shefi, the book reflects “a rich cultural food history” that spans both generations and continents. “I had the opportunity to learn about so many unique traditions from across the diaspora and [wanted] to preserve and highlight these recipes and stories. We brought to light cuisines and communities we don’t hear about as often.”
Shefi’s approach is exemplified in one of the book’s many featured recipes for Passover: mina de espinaca. This particular matzah pie hails from a Sephardic Jewish community in Izmir, Turkey, by way of Mexico City. A Sephardic speciality for Pesach, mina de matzah is a savory, layered pie made in many variations, including with fillings of seasoned meat or spinach and cheese. Its unique use of matzah to replace pastry dough creates a beautiful pie that makes a perfect celebratory centerpiece.
This mina recipe is from the kitchen of Alexandra Zohn, a New York City pastry chef and cookbook author who now works as a nutritionist and health coach. She was born and raised in the diverse Jewish community of Mexico City, to which her family immigrated from Turkey in the 1920s. Zohn’s family recipes were passed down by way of her great-great-grandmother Rosa, who was the first woman in her family to teach herself to read and write.
In the book, Zohn recalls that “Rosa’s recipes were often a part of [the] holiday meals my grandmother hosted for our entire family. Traditional dishes were key to the holidays. For Passover that meant charoset, matzah fritters, called buñuelos, and minas, pies layered with sheets of matzah stacked high with either meat or spinach, cheese and potatoes. I wish I had met Rosa, but I know she is part of my DNA. Her recipes are the best way I have to communicate with her.”
No matter what you choose to cook this Pesach, wine is always a must. “I love drinking wine; it is always on my table. I try to support small Israeli makers when I can,” says Shefi. “Passover is exciting in that context, as it has four glasses of wine built into the dinner as part of the ritual of the Seder.”
Below you will find Zohn’s mina de espinaca recipe for Passover, along with Wine Spectator’s 10 recommended wine pairings. The light textures and bright flavors of Sauvignon Blanc, unoaked or lightly oaked Chardonnay and rosé all complement the fresh, mildly vegetal elements in this mina de matzah and are ideal choices for celebrating springtime this Passover.
Mina de Espinaca Recipe
Excerpted from The Jewish Holiday Table by Naama Shefi and the Jewish Food Society (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2024.
Ingredients
- 2 russet or 3 Yukon Gold potatoes (about 1 1/2 pounds, or 675 grams), scrubbed, halved if large
- Kosher salt
- 1 1/2 cups (about 6 ounces, or 170 grams) shredded Parmesan cheese
- 8 ounces (225 grams) cream cheese, at room temperature
- 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
- 1 pound (450 grams) baby spinach, finely chopped
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 4 or 5 sheets matzah (7-inch or 17.5-centimeter squares)
Preparation
For the Potatoes
1. Put the potatoes in a medium saucepan, cover with water, add 1 tablespoon salt, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook until the potatoes can be easily pierced with a knife, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain and let cool until the potatoes are cool enough to handle but still warm.
2. Peel the potatoes and put them in a large bowl. Mash them with a potato ricer or fork until smooth, with no chunks. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, 3/4 cup (85 grams) of the Parmesan cheese, the cream cheese and the eggs, and mix well with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon until the mixture is smooth and uniform. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt, if you like. Set aside.
For the Spinach Filling
1. Put the chopped spinach in a medium bowl and add 1/2 cup (55 grams) of the Parmesan and 1 teaspoon salt. Mix until the cheese and salt are evenly distributed. Set aside.
2. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Grease a 10-inch (25-centimeter) springform pan with 1 teaspoon of the olive oil.
3. Fill a container that’s large enough to hold a matzah sheet with about an inch (2.5 centimeters) of water and stir in 1/4 teaspoon salt. Line a plate or tray with paper towels.
4. Soak the matzahs one at a time in the water until the sheets are flexible yet still firm enough to hold their shape; this could take anywhere from 30 seconds to a minute or two. Gently place each soaked matzah on the paper towels to absorb excess moisture.
To Assemble the Mina
1. Line the bottom of the springform pan with a matzah, then fill in the gaps around the edges with pieces of matzah that you tear to fit.
2. Spread half of the spinach-Parmesan mixture over the matzah in an even layer. Add another layer of moistened matzah on top, gently pressing the matzah into the spinach layer to make space for the remaining layers.
3. Spread the rest of the spinach mixture over the matzah layer. Place another layer of matzah over the spinach, gently pressing the matzah into the spinach to make room for the remaining layer.
4. Spread the potato mixture evenly over the matzah layer. Use the back of a spoon or an offset spatula to make swirls in the surface of the potatoes so they brown attractively in the oven. Sprinkle the remaining 1/4 cup (25 grams) Parmesan on top of the potato layer and drizzle the remaining olive oil on top.
5. Bake the mina until deep golden brown, 40 to 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow the mina to cool for about 5 minutes, then run the tip of a sharp knife around the edges of the mina to release it from the pan.
6. Remove the sides of the springform, transfer the mina to a serving platter, and cut into wedges. Serve hot.
10 Kosher White and Rosé Wines for Springtime
Note: The following list is a selection of outstanding and very good wines from recently rated releases. More options can be found in this recent Tasting Highlights featuring kosher wines or in our Wine Ratings Search.
It is important to note that 2022 is considered a "schmita" vintage in Israel. Every seventh year, Israeli winemakers producing kosher wine let the land "rest," and while the wines produced from the land during this time can be made kosher, they cannot be sold as kosher for Passover for those most strictly observing the holiday.
TZORA
Judean Hills White 2022
Score: 91 | $38
WS Review: Balances richness with a racy beam of acidity, which cuts through honeyed apple, warm spice and subtle brioche flavors. Opulent and creamy, with fleur de sel and crushed flint echoing on the long, well-rendered finish. Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through 2028. 1,800 cases made, 150 cases imported.—K.B.
TZORA
Shoresh White Judean Hills 2022
Score: 90 | $45
WS Review: A well-made version, with an appealing mix of peach, melon and citrus notes revved up by racy acidity and zesty minerality. Shows savory, smoky accents that hang in the backdrop alongside floral high tones. Creamy to slightly chalky in texture on a medium-weight frame. Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Drink now through 2028. 900 cases made, 60 cases imported.—K.B.
COVENANT
Rosé Red C Lodi 2023
Score: 88 | $24
WS Review: Tart and snappy, offering fresh orange peel and watermelon flavors that end on a zesty accent. Grenache. Drink now. 350 cases made.—T.F.
GOLAN HEIGHTS WINERY
Sauvignon Blanc Galilee Yarden 2022
Score: 88 | $24
WS Review: A softer style of Sauvignon Blanc defined by peach, lemon pith and a vein of salty minerality. Midweight and open-knit on the palate, with flint and smoke accents and succulent acidity. Kosher. Drink now. 6,915 cases made, 210 cases imported.—K.B.
DOMAINE DU CASTEL
La Vie Blanc du Castel Haute-Judée 2023
Score: 88 | $35
WS Review: Flinty, fresh version with light-to-medium weight to crunchy nectarine and lime blossom. Chopped chives, green pea and wet stone add dimension. Round in feel with modest zip holding the finish. Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Drink now.—K.B.
SHILOH
Judean Hills Rosé 2023
Score: 88 | $25
WS Review: Rose hip perfume and ripe melon introduce this very floral rosé, that shows good fleshiness. Distinct in style, with orange peel acidity and wet stones powering through. Cabernet Franc, Grenache and Barbera. Drink now. 951 cases made, 560 cases imported.—K.B.
SHILOH
Sauvignon Blanc Judean Hills 2023
Score: 88 | $29
WS Review: This shows some concentration and ripeness to melon and key lime with a slight tropical edge. Creamy on the palate with lushness supported by tangy acidity and crushed herbs and mint detail. Chalky mineral depth plays out along the finish. Drink now.—K.B.
RECANATI
Gris de Marselan Galilee 2022
Score: 87 | $30
WS Review: Delivers delicate strawberry and white peach notes that turn soft and broad on the palate. Shows a nice mineral edge that adds freshness, with orange peel acidity. Drink now.—K.B.
DALTÔN
Chardonnay Galilee Unoaked 2023
Score: 87 | $30
WS Review: Direct and well-made version, with orchard fruit and citrus blossom flecked with salt and driven by lime-edged acidity. Chalky-textured and bright. Drink now. 3,333 cases made, 700 cases imported.—K.B.
RECANATI
Yasmin White Galilee 2022
Score: 86 | $16
WS Review: Shows a charming aromatic profile of delicate passion fruit, nectarine and tangerine elements on a lithe palate, filled out with savory spices. Sauvignon Blanc and Colombard. Kosher. Drink now.—K.B.
