Despite its long history, wine has dramatically changed in the past half century. New World regions have emerged on stage and demanded respect. Old World areas that languished during hard times have been revitalized by visionary vintners. The sites profiled below all consistently produce outstanding wines and stand apart.
L’Ermita, Priorat, Spain
- Vines first planted: 13th century
- Vine age: 85 years, with a small number 114 years old
- Size: 3.5 acres
- Soils: Brown slate atop clay
- Grapes: Garnacha, Cariñena, small amounts of Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo and Pedro Ximénez
- Owner: Álvaro Palacios Priorat
One of the most significant wine revolutions of the past 50 years has been Spain’s emergence as a source for premium wine. And while traditional regions like Rioja played a major role, a group of ambitious winemakers exploring a relatively unknown area in the mountains south of Barcelona made it clear something remarkable was underway. In the 1980s, when they began to modernize wine in Priorat, there were just 1,500 acres of vines. A century earlier, before phylloxera struck, there had been 12,000. One of the newcomers, Álvaro Palacios of Rioja, found L’Ermita, a 3.5-acre vineyard on a northeast-facing slope just north of the tiny town of Gratallops, planted mostly in 1939, with a small section dating to 1910.
The soil is llicorella, a brown slate laced with quartzite that sparkles in the sun. Vine roots have to dig deep to find moisture. The mix is 90 percent Garnacha, 7 percent Cariñena and 3 percent white varieties. Palacios bought the land and created a single-vineyard cuvée. The 1997 vintage scored 97 points, at that time the highest score for a Spanish new release.—Mitch Frank
Adrianna Vineyard, Gualtallary, Mendoza, Argentina
- Vines first planted: 1994
- Vine age: Oldest are 30 years
- Size: 245 acres
- Soils: Alluvial, with limestone and gravel
- Grapes: Malbec, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir
- Owner: Bodega Catena Zapata
Nicolás Catena believes in luck, and luck goes into finding a terroir like Adrianna Vineyard. But there’s also determination. After discovering the remote, rugged land, Catena ignored the advice of his viticulturist, who warned him against planting vines at elevations of nearly 5,000 feet, where the annual average temperature is just 54° F. But elevation proved the secret ingredient for this spot, as intense sunlight easily ripens the grapes.
The Catenas studied the soils and found that Adrianna is crisscrossed by dry river beds that once dispersed stone and minerals, creating a diverse landscape. To highlight these differences, the Catenas vinify more than 200 separate lots. Among the most unique bottlings are two Chardonnays grown in the same parcel: White Bones comes from select rows layered with calcareous deposits, limestone and fossilized bones; White Stones shows a completely different character. The prized Catena Malbecs are deeply concentrated, structured and nuanced. Wines made from soils where limestone is more prevalent have higher acidity levels and more pronounced mineral notes, while deeper soils yield richer, jammier wines.—Aaron Romano
La Crau, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhône Valley, France
- Vines first planted: 1898
- Vine age: Varies, some well over a century
- Size: 173 acres
- Soils: Quartz rocks over a clay subsoil
- Grapes: Cinsault, Counoise, Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre, Muscardin, Piquepoul, Syrah, Terret Noir, Vaccarèse, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Picardan and Roussanne
- Producers: Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Domaine La Boutinière, Château de Nalys, Guillaume Gonnet, Domaine de la Janasse, Domaine du Pegau, Domaine de la Solitude, Domaine Santa Duc, Domaine Giraud, Clos St.-Jean and others
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is home to many different types of terroir, but La Crau is widely considered the finest. Located in the southeastern corner of the appellation, surrounded by a mostly flat landscape, this plateau sits close to 400 feet above the rest of the plain. Everything is more extreme in this spot—vines are exposed to the relentless mistral wind as well as more intense sunshine. In this harsh, barren landscape, grapes achieve concentration and a singular depth of flavor. But what people remember most are the rocks—the red clay subsoil is covered in a deep layer of round quartz stones called galets roulés, carried by the Rhône when its course flowed this way centuries ago.
If there is one winery that’s synonymous with La Crau, it’s Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, run by six generations of the Brunier family. They are the largest owners in the lieu-dit. But many well-known Châteauneuf producers own vines here, which they use for single-site bottlings or to contribute to top-tier cuvées, bringing density and longevity.—Kristen Bieler
Hirsch Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, California
- Vines first planted: 1980
- Vine age: 8 to 44 years
- Size: 72.19 acres
- Soils: Sandstone with a mix of heavy clays, sandy loams and rocks and gravel in different parcels
- Grapes: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
- Owners/Producers: Owned by Hirsch; Grapes purchased by Williams Selyem, Littorai, Ultramarine and Twomey
Growing grapes on a coastal ridge at 1,500 feet within view of the Pacific Ocean and surrounded by redwoods makes for a dramatic panorama. But that environment can also be incredibly challenging for vines. Winter rain is plentiful, yet the summers are dry. Being above the coastal fog line, the sunlight is intense. Temperatures and wind conditions are constantly in flux. Seismic activity from the San Andreas Fault over centuries has carved out a rugged topography where vines grow in sandstone-based soils containing varying degrees of clay and/or loam.
But harnessing all these elements yields exciting results. David Hirsch was among the first to plant in the western reaches of the Sonoma Coast in 1980, and the vineyard has long been a sought-after source for wineries such as Williams Selyem and Littorai for vineyard-designated wines. Divided into 60 blocks across 72 acres of vines, with numerous clones of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, each parcel was planted based on soil, exposure and topography. The sun, maritime influence and complex soils produce energetic wines with elegant yet chiseled structures.—A.R.
Montosoli, Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy
- Vines first planted: Unknown, but most recently in the 1960s
- Vine Age: Various
- Size: 111 acres
- Soils: Clay, marls and schist
- Grape: Sangiovese
- Owners: Altesino, Baricci, Canalicchio di Sopra, Caparzo, Le Ragnaie, Valdicava
Among great vineyards in Montalcino, Montosoli checks all the boxes. On a hill north of the town, it encompasses several individual terroirs and exposures. It has an impressive track record of wines stretching back half a century. No other location here offers the diversity and quality of wines from multiple owners. In prehistoric times, the hill was submerged beneath the sea. Over 5 million years, receding and advancing water levels left a complex mélange of soils. Alessandra Angelini, co-CEO of Altesino and Caparzo, describes them as “a complicated patchwork of clays and chalk, marls and schists, with rock components on the surface.”
The standalone hill rises from about 825 feet to 1,100 feet in elevation. The northwest-facing side is geologically older, consisting primarily of marl, volcanic schist and limestone. Despite facing north, it receives more hours of daylight. The southeast-facing slope contains a mix of clay, sand and stones with higher limestone content. The wines from the north side show more minerality and savory flavors; those from the south are richer, with more robust tannins.—Bruce Sanderson
Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, Côte de Nuits, Burgundy
- Vines first planted: Unknown, but first mentioned in 640 CE
- Vine age: Varies
- Size: 38 acres
- Soils: Limestone and clay marl
- Grape: Pinot Noir
- Owners: 18 owners including Pierre Damoy, Armand Rousseau, Drouhin-Laroze, Faiveley, Bruno Clair, Groffier, Jadot, Dujac, Jacques Prieur and Joseph Drouhin
Clos de Bèze doesn’t get the respect it deserves. Not only is it less famous than the grands crus of Vosne-Romanée, it’s less well-known than the grand cru next door, Chambertin. But Clos de Bèze has a longer history, and its vines are the source of some of Burgundy’s most seductive Pinot Noirs. The vineyard dates to at least 640 CE, when records show the land was donated to the Abbey of Bèze. Today, its 38 acres are divided among 18 owners.
How does it compare with its more famous neighbor? Both Clos de Bèze and Chambertin lie mid-slope, between 850 and 920 feet elevation. Both sit atop a block of limestone covered by a marl. While they share the same geology, Clos de Bèze, situated to the north of Chambertin, receives more influence from a break in the hillside above, which brings cool air, contributing vibrance that is sometimes lacking in Chambertin.
While Chambertin is majestic and more powerful, Clos de Bèze often delivers a mineral element that lends more excitement and intensity.—M.F.
Monte Rosso Vineyard, Moon Mountain District, Sonoma, California
- Vines first planted: 1886 for Semillion, 1893 for Zinfandel
- Vine age: Varies; oldest are 138 years
- Size: 250 acres
- Soils: Red hill clay loam
- Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Sémillon, Malbec, Petite Sirah, Merlot, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Syrah
- Owners/Producers: Owned by E. & J. Gallo; grapes purchased by Bedrock, Turley, Macrostie, Robert Biale, and others
A registered historic vineyard, Monte Rosso is home to some of the oldest producing grapevines in California, including Sémillon vines planted in 1886. Named for its iron-rich, red volcanic soils, this vineyard on the southwestern side of the Mayacamas Mountains took its current form of 250 acres after being purchased by Louis M. Martini in 1938. Martini planted Cabernet in 1940, which is still farmed today.
A mix of old and newer plantings is divided into 105 blocks, each farmed based on when the vines were planted, the topography and water retention. Most of the vineyard is above the fog, ranging from 700 to 1,300 feet in elevation. Because of its primarily southwest exposure, it enjoys generous afternoon sun, while regular breezes off the San Pablo Bay moderate the temperatures. Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel make up the bulk of the acres, and the volcanic soils and cooler climate yield distinctive wines marked by high acidity.—A.R.
Bernkasteler Doctor, Mosel, Germany
- Vines first planted: Unknown
- Vine age: At least 60 years, but varies
- Size: 8 acres
- Soils: Devonion blue slate, schist and clay
- Grape: Riesling
- Owners: Multiple owners including Dr. H. Thanisch Müller-Burggraef, Dr. H. Thanisch VDP, Dr. Loosen, Schloss Lieser and Markus Molitor
Perhaps no German vineyard has achieved greater worldwide fame than Bernkasteler Doctor in the Mosel river valley. Parcels here are the most expensive in Germany, and the wines are famous for their ability to age. Legend has it that they have healing powers—a popular local account of the vineyard’s name is that Trier archbishop Boëmund II was cured of a serious illness after consuming the wine around 1360 and dubbed it the real doctor.
The vineyard rises from the riverside town at a slope of 45 percent to 60 percent. The extremity of this gradient combined with an ideal south-by-southwest exposure creates conditions for all-day sunshine. Over a period of 15 million years, the Mosel river dug its way into a mineral-rich mountain range. The result is a vineyard of predominantly blue slate, with loam, schist and pockets of clay, offering good drainage. The vines average 60 years old, with several upward of 100. The Rieslings are rich and spicy, delicate and complex.—Rachel Whiteman
Rabajà, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy
- Vines first planted: Unknown
- Vine age: Varies
- Size: 37.7 acres
- Soils: Clay, limestone and sand
- Grape: Nebbiolo
- Producers: Bruno Rocca, Giuseppe Cortese, Produttori del Barbaresco and Bruno Giacosa
The Barbaresco appellation prides itself on its numerous vineyards, officially delineated since 2007 into Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (MGAs), making this, along with neighboring Barolo, arguably the most Burgundian wine region in Italy. Two vineyards sharing one ridge stand out as the grandest of grands crus—Asili and Rabajà. Asili wines are known for elegance and refinement. Rabajà wines are known for brooding power, and yet they also deliver complexity and make a strong case for it being the top vineyard in the appellation.
Rabajà (not to be confused with the separate Rabajà Bas MGA) occupies a natural amphitheater that faces southwest, soaking in the afternoon summer sun. The slope is less steep than Asili and stretches from 850 to 1,000 feet above sea level. The soils are a complex mix of 40 percent clay, 35 percent limestone and 25 percent sand. Bruno Rocca’s and Giuseppe Cortese’s wineries are both located on the hill, but numerous other growers own parcels here, including Bruno Giacosa and members of Produttori del Barbaresco.—M.F.
Hill of Grace Vineyard, Eden Valley, Australia
- Vines first planted: Oldest vines planted in 1860; the balance planted between 1910 and 1965, all on own roots
- Vine age: Oldest Shiraz vines are more than 160 years old; some are 125 years old
- Size: 20 acres
- Soils: Sandy loam atop medium-red clay with some pockets of calcium carbonate and a bedrock of blue slate
- Grapes: Primarily Shiraz, with some Mataro, Sémillon and Riesling
- Owner: Henschke family
The Hill of Grace Shiraz is one of the world’s most iconic wines, consistently earning classic scores. Wine and site are powerfully linked here, proving that Australia makes wines that express unique places. Owned by the Henschke family since 1951, the first single-vineyard bottling came from the 1958 vintage and has been made in all except drought years.
Located in Eden Valley, perched 1,300 feet above the Barossa Valley floor, the cooler climate here leads to fragrant and elegant wines. The vineyard was originally planted in the 1860s, and some of its treasured old vines continue to bear fruit. Fifth-generation winemaker Stephen Henschke tells the story of the vineyard by describing the village that once surrounded it; now, only a brick church remains across the road. It’s quiet and still, the gnarly, twisted old vines commanding attention. “When you close your eyes and smell [the wine], you can smell this sense of place,” says Henschke. “You can smell being in the vineyard, the church, the post office, the people baking bread and sweating in the vineyard. This is the real story for this wine.”—MaryAnn Worobiec
Hyde Vineyard, Carneros, California
- Vines first planted: 1979
- Vine age: Varies
- Size: 200 acres
- Soils: Clay loam
- Grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot
- Owners/Producers: Owned by Hyde Family; fruit purchased by HdV, Kistler, Ramey, Aubert, Kongsgaard, Patz & Hall and more than two dozen others
Hyde Vineyard produces some of Calfornia’s most coveted grapes and has become one of the most respected sites in Carneros. What’s more, it’s the birthplace of two beloved clones—Hyde Wente Chardonnay and Hyde Calera Pinot Noir. Larry Hyde established the vineyard in 1979 on 200 acres on the Napa County side of Carneros. The vines are planted on an undulating slope 8 miles from San Pablo Bay. Morning fog and cool breezes from the water, coupled with a southeast exposure toward the morning sun, produce slow and steady grape-ripening. The soil is thin topsoil over a clay pan that retains water, effectively resisting drought. The resulting grapes are tiny clusters of concentrated berries with ample acidity.
The Hyde family sells fruit to over 35 different wineries while retaining a small quantity for their estate wine program. Among the grape buyers putting Hyde Vineyard on their labels are HdV, Kistler, Ramey, Aubert, Kongsgaard and Patz & Hall.—Chris Cardoso
Clos Ste.-Hune, Alsace, France
- Vines first planted: Vineyard established in 1919; current vines date to 1953
- Vine age: 60 years on average
- Size: 4.12 acres
- Soils: Limestone Muschelkalk (fossilized seashells)
- Grape: Riesling
- Owner: Trimbach (monopole)
Trimbach is a family-owned and operated winery dating to 1626. The wines the family makes from its Grand Cru holdings are among the most complex and structured dry Rieslings found anywhere.
The diamond in the crown is Clos Ste.-Hune, a parcel established in 1919 on property that has been in family hands for over 200 years. The monopole occupies just over 5 percent of the Rosacker Grand Cru, which hugs the commune of Hunawihr. Located midslope with south and southeastern exposure and a soil of limestone and the fossils of ancient shellfish, Clos Ste.-Hune benefits from a terroir that allows its grapes to achieve an impressive level of ripeness. But botrytis is rarely an issue, so the wines offer crystalline purity. Clos Ste.-Hune is a classic example of Alsace’s traditional bone-dry style, a feat increasingly difficult to achieve amidst climate change. The wine is always aged for a minimum of six years before release.
The tremendous quality of the wine, along with its ageability and rarity—on average, only 7,000 bottles are made each year—has made Clos Ste.-Hune among the most coveted Rieslings in the world.—Larry Rubin
Old Hill Ranch, Sonoma Valley, California
- Vines first planted: 1852
- Vine age: Varies
- Size: 12 acres
- Soils: Alluvial red clay and volcanic tuff
- Grapes: Zinfandel, Grenache and 30 other varieties
- Producers: Bucklin, Bedrock, Carlisle, Once & Future
One of the oldest and most distinctive vineyards in California, Old Hill Ranch is living history. It was first planted nine years before the Civil War by William McPherson Hill. Like most vineyards of that era, Old Hill is a field blend, a collection of various grapes that are harvested together to produce a single wine. Old Hill is 75 percent Zinfandel, 10 percent Grenache and a mélange of 30 other varieties, some of which haven’t been identified even with DNA testing.
When winemaker Joel Peterson first walked Old Hill in 1975, it was overrun with blackberries, littered with rusty cars and home to a commune of hippie transplants from San Francisco. The late Otto Teller lovingly resuscitated the vineyard in the early 1980s, and Peterson—then winemaker and founder of Ravenswood—helped reestablish its reputation as one of the great vineyards of the Golden State.—Tim Fish
Les Bessards, Hermitage, Northern Rhône Valley, France
- Vines first planted: Unknown, possibly as early as 500 BC
- Vine age: Varies
- Size: 331 acres
- Soils: Granite and marl
- Grapes: Syrah, one small parcel of Marsanne
- Producers: M. Chapoutier, Domaine Marc Sorrel, Delas Frères, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Cave de Tain
On this slope in the heart of the Hermitage hill, old vines cling to steep terraces of granite and yield some of the most powerful expressions of Syrah in the world. One of the largest lieu-dit in Hermitage, Les Bessards starts at the foot of the hill, roughly 300 feet above sea level, and extends upward another 600 feet to the top. Vines struggle to thrive in the rocky soils, but the south-facing exposure provides ample sunlight.
Vines were likely planted here first by ancient Greeks as far back as 500 BC, and today it is the source of some of Hermitage’s most coveted cuvées—including Chapoutier’s Le Pavillon, Chave’s Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin and Jaboulet’s La Chapelle. Almost entirely planted to Syrah, there is one small parcel of Marsanne, owned by Delas. The various climates of Hermitage tend to offer varying elegance and power based on the soil, exposure and altitude. Les Bessards, with a particularly high concentration of granite, full southern exposure and a large variation of altitudes, offers wines that are intensely minerally, with a firm tannic structure and a legendary ability to age.—K.B.
Rocche di Castiglione, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy
- Vines first planted: Unknown
- Vine age: Varies, but many are decades old; Vietti owns parcels planted in 1940
- Size: 40.34 acres
- Soils: Sandstone and calcareous marls
- Grapes: Primarily Nebbiolo, with a small percentage of Dolcetto and Barbera
- Owners: 14 owners, most notably Arnaldo Rivera, Brovia, Ceretto, Oddero, Roagna, Roccheviberti, Paolo Scavino and Vietti
There is no shortage of renowned vineyards in Italy’s Barolo denomination—Brunate, Bussia, Cannubi, Monprivato and Vigna Rionda come to mind. Choosing among these parcels is nearly impossible, but one MGA that best expresses the vitality of Barolo is Rocche di Castiglione. This thin strip of vines is planted on a steep slope, running along the main north-to-south ridge in Castiglione Falletto into the adjoining commune of Monforte d’Alba. Most of its 40.34 acres lie in the commune of Castiglione Falletto. Ranging from 925 to 1,155 feet in elevation, its soils are mostly sandy, with some calcareous marl. Those well-drained soils produce highly aromatic and elegant Nebbiolos that still show plenty of power. Its grapes are typically the first to ripen among MGAs in the Barolo region.
There are 14 wineries that make a Rocche di Castiglione single-vineyard bottling. Vietti began putting it on the label in 1961, Brovia in 1970, Podere e Cantine Oddero since 1982 and Fratelli Monchiero since 1985. The hallmark of Rocche di Castiglione wines is finesse married to terrific intensity and persistence.—B.S.
Champoux Vineyard, Horse Heaven Hills, Washington
- Vines first planted: 1972
- Vine age: Varies
- Size: 169 acres
- Soils: Fine, sandy loam
- Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot
- Owners: Quilceda Creek, Woodward Canyon, Andrew Will and Badger Mountain/Powers
Washington state has many noteworthy vineyards, but none has a pedigree quite like Champoux. It was first planted in 1972 in what is now Horse Heaven Hills appellation, and the Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the original Block One section are among the oldest in the state. The vineyard has supplied grapes to leading producers such as Woodward Canyon, Andrew Will, Januik, Fidelitas and most notably Quilceda Creek.
While Horse Heaven Hills is one of the warmer AVAs in Columbia Valley, the 169-acre Champoux is situated in its coldest area, at an elevation from 600 and 800 feet. Constant cooling winds from the nearby Columbia River Gorge help mitigate the impact of daytime heat and preserve acidity. Winemaker Paul Golitzin of Quilceda Creek, which owns 79 percent of Champoux, or about 133 acres, often waits to pick the vineyard until the last two weeks of October. It’s that long hangtime that lends depth, aromatics and a silky texture to the wines, Golitzin says.—T.F.
Clos du Mesnil, Champagne, France
- Vines first planted: 1698
- Vine age: Approximately 50 years old
- Size: 4.5 acres
- Soils: Belemnite chalk and fossilized seashells
- Grape: Chardonnay
- Owner: Krug
The 4.5-acre Clos du Mesnil was not the source of Champagne’s first single-vineyard wine, but today it is the region’s most famous bottling from just one contiguous site. Brothers Rémi and Henri Krug discovered the walled, dilapidated plot nestled among the houses and village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in 1971. The family purchased it as a good source of Chardonnay to blend into the house’s Grande Cuvée bottling. They quickly replanted. But vins clairs from even young vines stood out, and the first single-vineyard Clos du Mesnil, a 1979, was released in 1986.
The largely east-facing, walled vineyard of Chardonnay vines planted on a deep, pure layer of chalk is divided into microplots. Each plot is assessed individually at harvest and then vinified separately. Grapes from vines close to the heat-retaining stone walls ripen more quickly and are usually picked first; those partially shaded by a tree ripen more slowly and are harvested later. Regardless of vintage character, the hallmarks of a bottling of Clos du Mesnil are chalky minerality paired with rapierlike acidity, a chiseled frame for a given vintage’s layered flavor profile.—Alison Napjus
Mayacamas, Mt. Veeder, Napa Valley
- Vines first planted: 1889
- Vine age: Varies
- Size: 50 acres
- Soils: Volcanic rock and ash
- Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay
- Owner: Mayacamas Vineyards
This remote spot on the south slope of Mount Veeder on the western edge of Napa Valley is arguably the most historic and representative example of Napa mountain Cabernet. John Henry Fisher bought the land and built the winery that largely stands today in 1889, clearing some land to grow Zinfandel and transporting it by wagon in casks to San Francisco. He went bankrupt after the great earthquake of 1906, and the estate would not be revived until 1941, replanted to Cabernet. It would grab acclaim under then-owner Bob Travers in the 1970s.
Today, the Schottenstein family owns Mayacamas and has been revitalizing the estate. The vineyard encompasses 50 acres, ranging in elevation from 1,800 to 2,220 feet. The vines are high enough to enjoy ample sunlight but also cool breezes from the Pacific to the west and San Pablo Bay to the south. The soils are eroded volcanic rock and ash. The Schottensteins converted the property to organic farming. The wines have the power, elegance and personality of great mountain Cab.—M.F.
Clos Fourtet, St.-Émilion, Bordeaux, France
- Vines first planted: Middle Ages
- Vine age: Varies
- Size: 47 acres
- Soils: Limestone
- Grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon
- Owner: Clos Fourtet
The wines of St.-Émilion are defined by the plateau of limestone that rises up in the middle of the appellation. Clos Fourtet is a walled vineyard on the highest point of the plateau, a 47-acre site just across the road from the town of St-Émilion. It is arguably the best expression of this unique terroir.
Originally called Campfourtet, it was a military fort in the Middle Ages. In 1867, it became Clos Fourtet when Elie Rulleau took the money he made quarrying limestone more than 30 feet under the vines and invested it in restoring the vineyard and producing wine.
The Cuvelier family, owners since 2001, have made major investments in quality. The topsoil in the Clos, full of limestone chunks, varies from 15 to 40 inches deep. After that it’s rock. The soil reflects the summer heat and also drains quickly. The vineyard is planted with 83 percent Merlot, 9 percent Cabernet Franc and 8 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, and while the Merlot gets ripe, it has intense minerality and structure.—M.F.
Bien Nacido, Santa Maria Valley, California
- Vines first planted: 1973
- Vine age: Some original vines from 1973; other plantings from the 1990s and 2000s
- Size: 430 acres
- Soils: A wide variety of shale-clay loams, shale loams, clay loams, and sandy loams with some volcanic formations and dolomitic limestone
- Grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Pinot Blanc, Grenache, Rousanne, Nebbiolo, Refosco, Aligote, Marsanne, Mourvèdre and Viognier
- Current Winery Customers: Bien Nacido Estate Program, Au Bon Climat, Ledge, Foxen, Clos Solene, Fess Parker, Torrin, Paul Lato, Ojai Vineyard, Nicora, La Pelle, Jaffurs, Tolosa, Covenant and Hitching Post
- Owner: Miller family
Bien Nacido has been an acclaimed source of grapes and estate wines since brothers Stephen and Bob Miller purchased the land in 1969 and planted the original vineyards in 1973. But its history goes back further—Bien Nacido means “well born,” and the vineyard is part of the historic Rancho Tepusquet Spanish land grant, given to Tomás Olivera in 1837 when California was still part of Mexico.
Over the years, the property was divided, until the Millers reconnected two of the largest parcels. In addition to growing grapes, the family continues to farm avocados and lemons and leases plots of land to local farmers as a way to rotate the crops.
The vineyard epitomizes what makes Santa Maria Valley ideal for growing wine. It’s one of the few places in the world where transverse mountain ranges open up to an ocean. When the interior regions of California warm up, the hot air rises, creating a vacuum that pulls in cool air from the Pacific. By the early afternoon, Santa Maria is cool and windy, which triggers slow, even ripening.—M.W.
