The writer Lafcadio Hearn once said of New Orleans, “Times are not good here. The city is crumbling into ashes. It has been buried under taxes and frauds and maladministrations so that it has become a study for archaeologists. But it is better to live here in sackcloth and ashes than to own the whole state of Ohio.”
Now, I think Lafcadio was being unfair to Ohio. But after residing in New Orleans for more than 13 years, I will agree that there is no place else I would rather live. Because while we as a city routinely confront problems of sinking streets, incompetently corrupt and corruptly incompetent politicians, and mosquitos big enough to be mistaken for Amazon delivery drones, we know how to celebrate life.
April is one of our favorite months to do just that. The weather is gorgeous, and the stifling heat of summer has not descended yet. It is prime festival season. This weekend is the opening of the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival, better known as Jazz Fest, arguably America’s greatest music festival. Despite the name, it is not all jazz. It is 14 stages featuring dozens of musical artists, ranging from brass bands from down the block to the Rolling Stones (originally from England, if you’re unfamiliar).
In between the stages lie dozens of booths staffed by restaurants from around the state, offering incredible food. Some of my favorites include the Cochon du Lait po-boy from Walker’s BBQ, the Trout Baquet from Lil’ Dizzy’s Cafe and the Pheasant, Quail and Andouille Gumbo from Prejean’s.
You know what all this music and food is missing? Some outstanding wine
Oh, they added a wine booth a few years ago, and recently they’ve been offering a nice canned rosé. But Fest tends to be a mass-market canned beer event (sponsored by a brand that rhymes with Thriller), and you’ll usually find me trekking across the entire festival grounds to the one tent that offers a decent local beer on draft.
This year, however, I can do better. And so can you. For the first time, Wine Spectator’s Grand Tour is coming to New Orleans. Jazz Fest is a daytime event and, on the evening of April 26, it’s time for wine fest. More than 200 wineries will be pouring some of their best wines, all rated 90 points or higher by Wine Spectator editors. You can watch Jon Batiste close out that day’s musical acts and then head down to the Marriott on Canal Street, just on the edge of the French Quarter. (Jon, if you want to come after your set, just email me.)
Frankly, it’s surprising the Grand Tour has never been to NOLA before, because it celebrates wine the way we celebrate life. The tasting is a chance to explore the best the wine world offers, to taste with friends, to sample new-to-you wines and old favorites, and to meet the winemakers and learn about how the wine is made. And if you get hungry, three of the city’s best restaurants—Brennan’s, Commander’s Palace and Emeril’s, all of which also hold our Grand Award for their wine lists—are offering food.
Start Your Evening With Something Uplifting
I begin every day at Jazz Fest in the gospel tent, for two sacred reasons. One, it’s close to the tent that sells beignets and coffee. Two, there is no better way to start your musical day than with the soaring melodies of church singers. And there is no better way to start a wine tasting than with the soaring melodies of sparkling wine. Bubblies will lift your soul.
You can go classic Champagne, with Charles Heidsieck Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne NV (93 points), or opt for California and pink, with Domaine Carneros Brut Rosé Carneros Cuvée de la Pompadour NV (93), or try something Italian with the Ca' del Bosco Extra Brut Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige 45 Edizione NV (91). Franciacorta is Champagne’s Italian cousin, light years away from Prosecco.
From there, you can opt for rock star favorites. Yes, there will be Caymus Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Special Selection 2018 (94), Rombauer Chardonnay Carneros Proprietor Selection 2021 (92), Fontodi Colli della Toscana Centrale Flaccianello 2020 (96) and Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2021 (94).
But one of the beauties of a large event like this is you can explore the wonders of the wine world you may not have discovered yet. Ever tasted the complex beauty of white wines from Northeastern Italy? How about Jermann Venezia-Giulia Vintage Tunina 2020 (92), a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Picolit. What about a Spanish white grape that almost went extinct? Try the Bodegas Avancia Godello Valdeorras Old Vines 2021 (92).
You know Chianti Classico, but can you tell the differences between its various towns and soils? Castello di Ama, Castello di Fonterutoli and Castello di Monsanto are all next to each other at the Grand Tour, and you can learn about what makes each of their wines unique—and taste those distinctions. And while you will probably not get to meet any of the headliners from Jazz Fest this weekend (unless they come to the tasting; Jon, just shoot me an email), many of the winemakers will be on hand and are eager to answer your questions.
There’s a joke in New Orleans: We tend to spend lunch talking about what we’re going to eat for dinner. In a city on the edge of the Gulf, we know that life is short and you need to enjoy it, whether it’s good music, delicious food or outstanding wine. I would not trade that for anything.
Grand Tour tickets for New Orleans, La Vegas and Denver are available now. For more information, tickets and hotel information, visit GrandTour.WineSpectator.com.
