The cicadas are stirring, sun lotion is being snapped up from store shelves and flip flops and beach bags are coming out of hibernation. We all know what that means: It’s finally summertime. Or better yet—it’s finally barbecue season.
All year, we’ve been waiting for long afternoons lounging outside, drinking in the delicious, smoky aromas while precariously holding paper plates filled with succulent charred meats. What makes it all complete? The perfect glass of wine. So many wines can work just fine with juicy grilled meat, but particular pairings can help the sun shine a little brighter.
For suggestions, Wine Spectator reached out to Restaurant Award-winning sommeliers who call the barbecue capitals of the United States home—from Kansas City, Mo., to Richmond, Va. Find out how to create a sweet and salty experience with off-dry wines, the importance of a chillable red at cookouts and why you should look to the three B’s for pairing with brisket.
Wine Specator: What are the best wines to pair with barbecue?
Daniel Bowman, beverage director for Travis Street Hospitality, including Best of Award of Excellence winner Georgie in Dallas
[This is] a really fun topic considering I got my start in hospitality by working at a barbecue spot! If I were bringing bottles to pair at a barbecue, I would bring the following:
- Cru Beaujolais, specifically Fleurie, with a smoked half chicken. A slightly chilled light and floral Gamay is a refreshing poultry pairing while not breaking the bank.
- Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello and brisket. Specifically the half referred to as top cut, marbled or fatty, depending on where you are. The great acidity and tannin structure of one of the “three B’s” are great for any richer cut of meat.
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape and pork ribs. Jammy and tart Grenache with peppery Syrah come together and play well with a brown sugar rub and caramelized barbecue sauce [covered] rib.
Todd Johnston, beverage director of Award of Excellence winner Marsh House, Nashville, Tenn.
As a white wine drinker, I will participate in a great red wine on occasion, but there is almost always a bottle of high-acid white I would prefer to be drinking. With that being said, for me, barbecue means juicy, delicious and refreshing Chenin Blanc. Something that cools you off and cuts through the indulgent and smoky red meat would be what I would bring to a backyard hang.
Guiberteau is a wonderful producer out of Saumur in the Loire Valley that is judicious with their oak usage, creating a mouth-wateringly fresh expression of Chenin Blanc that has a nice rich backbone. I would also love a bottle of Albariño for a backyard barbecue. Rias Baixas is a cute coastal region in Northern Spain that is really coming through with some stellar juice featuring Albariño: peachy, salty, round and delicious.
Nick Montes, wine director of Award of Excellence winner Lemaire, Richmond, Va.
When I think about what to bring to a particular occasion, I always factor in what the weather and temperature is for the gathering. Summer barbecues are typically warm, daytime affairs, and the wine I bring should have refreshing attributes to it. With grilled meats, [which] are often the culinary focus of barbecues, you can’t go wrong with one of the many chillable reds that are available on the market. I would personally reach for a bottle of Caparsa Rosso di Caparsa Toscana IGT Sangiovese or Sindicat la Figuera Montsant [a Garnatxa Negra].
There are so many different options on the market that it is impossible to create a comprehensive list, so I think the takeaway should be for buyers to look for wines made to express crunchy, vibrant fruit profiles with tantalizing spice elements. The wines shouldn’t be too heavy or extracted but have enough presence to stand up to the grilled meat. The name of the game is brightness and vibrancy to counteract the sweltering summer heat.
Matt Nichols, wine director of Best of Award of Excellence winner JJ’s Restuarant, Kansas City, Mo.
I love the versatility of rosé, amazing with smoked meats, grilled meats or anything off the smoker or grill. Surprising with smoked brisket. Grenache also: Berry fruit and pepper with smoked meats works incredibly well. Even with chicken or fish! With big smoky meats—brisket, pork butt or anything with good fat content— balanced Zinfandel with big fruit is a classic.
Ali Schmidt, wine director of Emmer & Rye hospitality group, including Best of Award of Excellence winner Hestia and Award of Excellence winner Emmer & Rye in Austin
My go-to barbecue bottles are chilled (it’s Texas!), fruit-forward to balance the smoke from the grill and affordable. This year I'm bringing Lewis Wines Parr Vineyard Mourvèdre; Doug Lewis shows the lighter side of Mourvèdre grown in the Texas Hill Country, a perfect burger pairing. For bubbles to start the party, I’m opening Paul Prieur & Fils’ Bulles de Pinot, a méthode ancestrale rosé [from Sancerre] that's bursting with fruit. Can Sumoi's Xarel-lo [from Spain] is my summer go-to white; it’s immensely refreshing and sustainably farmed.
Austin Tabbone, wine director and general manager of Award of Excellence winner High Street Wine Co., San Antonio
Growing up in San Antonio, there is no shortage of great barbecue with powerhouses like 2M, Pinkerton’s, South, Reese Bros, Three Six General and Black’s all within reach, leaving me always on the hunt for the next dope wine pairing. For me, pairing to barbecue in Texas is all about highlighting the smokiness from great wood, usually mesquite or hickory, and a solid dry rub. You’re playing double duty—tapering salty, fatty and peppery while complementing the smoke.
One of my favorite pairings of all time comes from some of the most tragic vintages, those that are hit with wildfires. Wines like Joe Swick’s BBQ Red, made from Pinot Noir grapes hit by wildfire smoke in the Willamette Valley in the 2020 vintage, satisfy mezcal drinkers but also highlight and showcase the savory, smoky flavors of barbecue. [This creates] a niche to help lessen the economic impact of these vintages that could ruin small wineries and vineyards.
More classically, I often find myself reaching for Syrah. I love its naturally peppery qualities that highlight the classic dry rubs used, and it is something with acid to cut through the fatty goodness that is Texas brisket. Syrahs from New Zealand are a personal favorite of mine, like Trinity Hill’s Gimblett Gravels Syrah.
Using wines with a little bit of residual sugar is my final trick, creating a pairing of sweet and salty that I think is a gift that keeps on giving. Leave me alone with a plate of tender brisket, burnt ends, smoked sausages and a bottle of Domaine Huet’s Le Haut Lieu Demi-Sec Vouvray or H. Dönnhoff’s estate Riesling and I’m having an absolute blast!
