For decades, vermouth has been accumulating dust on the back bar, where a lonely green bottle waits to be used sparingly—if at all—in a dry Martini.
Luckily for wine and spirits lovers, change is in the air. In the past decade, established brands have upped their game, and small producers are making outstanding versions in both traditional and experimental styles. Vermouth generally offers excellent value, with most bottles priced less than $40. And vermouth is highly versatile—suitable for sipping on the rocks, mixing up a cocktail or savoring straight from a wineglass.
“Vermouth is the best of both worlds for me as a wine person,” says Madeline Maldonado, beverage director at José Andrés’ Mercado Little Spain. Its versatility, range of styles and ability to express terroir make it a natural bridge between wine and spirits—and a stylish addition to any home bar.
With soaring quality and diversity, there’s never been a better time to appreciate this fortified and aromatized wine.
What Is Vermouth, and How Is It Made?
Traditionally, the base wine for all vermouth is white. Most sweet vermouths get their color from a combination of sugar, botanicals and sometimes colorants. Spirit is added to the base wine, which results in an alcohol by volume between 13 and 22 percent. Alec Kass, who has assembled a list of over 200 vermouths as beverage director at New York’s Rosevale Cocktail Room at the Civilian Hotel, says vermouth “is closer to wine, in many respects, than it is to spirits.” It can be drunk straight, in a wineglass, on the rocks or in a dazzling array of cocktails.
Vermouth’s defining botanical is wormwood. (The name “vermouth” may have come from wermut, the German word for wormwood.) While some countries require the inclusion of at least a little wormwood in order for something to be called “vermouth,” most producers don’t use much. And some, particularly those in the New World, avoid wormwood entirely. Other common botanicals include gentian, cinchona, rhubarb, cinnamon and citrus, and the number of botanicals in vermouth can range from a mere handful to more than 50.
There’s evidence that fortified and aromatized wine, some of which included wormwood, was produced across the ancient world, from China to Greece and beyond. Wine was commonly fortified for preservation, and botanicals were often added for purported medicinal benefits. While doctors today are unlikely to espouse vermouth as a cure-all, its appetite-stimulating properties give it a starring role in aperitivo hours across the globe.
Where Did Vermouth Come From?
Vermouth’s modern era began with Antonio Benedetto Carpano, who began making sweet vermouth with Moscato wine in Turin in 1786. His vermouth was a hit with locals and royalty alike, and it sparked a wave of commercial production across the Duchy of Savoy. The Torino style was recognized in 1991 as a protected geographical indication, Vermouth di Torino, and stricter production specifications were enacted in 2017.
On the other side of the duchy, in the south of France, the early 1800s saw the invention of dry vermouth by Joseph Noilly and sweeter blanc versions by Dolin and Comoz. These styles gave rise to the many blanc, dry and extra dry vermouths now produced around the world. Kass notes that these white styles, while often not as highly regarded as sweet vermouth, can provide rich rewards. “For some people, dry vermouth is their favorite part of vermouthing,” he quips.
Carpano’s original recipe was revived in 2001 as Carpano Antica Formula, which quickly became a favorite of professional and home bartenders. Other historic producers followed with their own bottlings modeled on original recipes from centuries past. These higher-quality bottlings include Cocchi Storico, Cinzano 1757, Martini & Rossi Riserva Speciale and others.
Where Is Vermouth Made Today?
While modern, commercial production began in Italy, vermouth-making quickly spread to France, Spain and beyond. Today, vermouth is made across the Old and New Worlds, with producers in the United States, Australia, South America, South Africa and elsewhere producing quality bottlings inspired by local botanicals and winemaking traditions.
In Spain, many bottlings from the south incorporate Sherry, which lends nutty notes to vermouths of immense character and sense of place. In Cognac, La Quintinye adds local Pineau des Charentes (a blend of grape juice or must and eau-de-vie) to the base wine, resulting in a fresh, fruity style. In Japan, Oka uses a sake base fortified with shochu and incorporates local botanicals including yuzu. While their “Bermutto” seems a world apart from its broad-shouldered, bitter cousins from Torino, it’s still recognizably vermouth—and undeniably delicious.
Vermouth’s New World: Innovative Styles
There are seemingly as many ways to make vermouth as there are to drink it. Historic houses continue to revive old recipes and improve quality, while small producers are experimenting with local botanicals, nontraditional base wines and new production methods. A strong sense of experimentation, whimsy and play animates the most exciting boutique offerings, which are well worth seeking out.
In Australia, Maidenii aims to make a vermouth that “smells like the bush” and expresses terroir by incorporating native botanicals including sea parsley, strawberry gum and wattleseed. Other small producers, from Santa Barbara’s T. W. Hollister to Piedmont’s Pio Cesare, are using high quality wines and local botanicals to marvelous effect.
Pio Cesare adds estate Chardonnay to its Moscato base, while New York’s Method uses hybrid grapes from the Finger Lakes wine region. Many are opting to use red wine, rather than the traditional white, for their sweet vermouth, which can result in a fuller, richer expression.
Maidenii’s Gilles Lapalus is emphatic about the importance of the base wine: “If you start with a bad wine, you’re not going to have a good vermouth.”
Types of Vermouth: Sweet, Dry and Beyond
While sweet and dry (or red and white) are the broadest and most recognizable categories of vermouth, there are many other styles to try.
Dry and Extra Dry
Dry and extra dry vermouths evolved from the blanc style, largely in response to American cocktail drinkers’ enthusiasm for dry Martinis. It’s easy to make unremarkable versions using a generic base wine, but quality bottlings can be gorgeous.
Blanc
Of the white vermouths, blanc (or bianco) is the sweetest—Dolin and Comoz created the style in the mid-19th century in Chambéry, France. Blanc vermouths are often overlooked in favor of their drier counterparts, but they’re delicious on their own and in cocktails.
Rosé, Amber and Americano
Many vermouths fall somewhere between sweet and dry. These include rosé and amber bottlings. (The latter use caramelized sugar). Americano (or aperitivo) styles are akin to bitter herbal liqueurs like Campari, but they use a wine base instead of liquor.
Sweet
Italian sweet vermouths tend to have more bitterness and brawn than their Spanish counterparts, which are often nuttier and more fruit-forward. That said, the flavor difference between sweet vermouths, even two from the same region, can be astonishing.
Chinato
Bitter vermouths (called chinato, amaro or amargo) take cinchona as a core botanical. These are similar to liquor-based amaro, though their wine base sets them apart. The most distinguished example of the style is Piedmont’s Barolo Chinato. While these are technically vermouths, they belong to a class of their own—and are often more expensive.
Can You Drink Vermouth Straight?
Too often, vermouth is considered a minimal, or even optional, cocktail ingredient. But the pleasures of drinking vermouth on its own are many. Try it by itself—with a chill, in a wineglass—to fully appreciate its aromatic complexity. For an elegant aperitif, serve vermouth in a rocks glass or juice tumbler over ice, with a slice of orange or a lemon twist. You can add an olive, in the drink or on the side, for a Spanish flair. And don’t forget a salty snack—whether more olives, tinned fish or even potato chips.
Any vermouth you’re considering using in a cocktail is worth trying by itself. That said, quality ingredients and artisanal bottlings often make for a more enjoyable sipping experience.
Embracing Spain’s La Hora del Vermut
Italy and France both have strong vermouth-drinking traditions, but in Spain, vermouth is a cultural force. Though vermouth’s popularity waned following Francisco Franco’s death in 1975, the drink has regained popularity, and Spaniards across the country are again embracing the traditional hora del vermut (“vermouth hour”). Israel Ramírez and Gabriel Dávila, of Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence winner Saddle in Madrid, say the vermouth hour “is more than just a tradition in Spain” and that it’s hard to overstate the cultural importance of vermouth’s role in bringing Spaniards together.
The tradition, which evolved as a post-church ritual but is now practiced any day of the week, from midmorning into the afternoon and evening, typically involves sipping vermouth on the rocks, sometimes with a splash of soda, with a slice of orange or lemon. An olive is optional. Pintxos or other salty snacks—plus conversation with friends—make the hora del vermut complete.
Vermouth, Cocktails and the Aperitivo Hour
Vermouth seems to be benefiting from America’s embrace of aperitivo culture. Whether it’s drunk straight, with soda or tonic, or as a dominant player in a cocktail, vermouth’s modest ABV makes it a no-brainer for those seeking low-alcohol options that don’t sacrifice flavor.
A thoughtful approach to vermouth can dramatically up your bartending game. Francesco Dionese, who recently began making vermouth in upstate New York, says that “vermouth is what gives personality to the Manhattan” and other classics. Yet it too often goes overlooked. While he recommends experimenting with ratios, he says that “more than the proportions, I would like people to focus on which vermouth they use.”
Kass, who says guests have responded enthusiastically to themed vermouth flights, agrees that the choice of vermouth makes all the difference. “Give me three different vermouths, and it’s like I’m tasting three different spirits.” To him, the key to getting cocktail drinkers to embrace vermouth is simple: “Start serving good vermouth.”
The happy news is that there’s never been a wider range of high quality vermouth available for curious consumers to explore. After surveying the contemporary vermouth landscape and tasting over 40 bottlings, we’ve selected a few so delicious (see the chart below), they won’t have time to gather dust.
Pro Tip: How to Store Vermouth
It’s best to keep open bottles in the fridge, where they’ll easily stay fresh for a month—and perhaps three or more. If you don’t have fridge space, don’t worry too much: Well-made vermouth is remarkably hardy, especially bottles at 17 percent ABV and above. With exposure to air, botanical flavors tend to soften and fade, but it’s rare that a bottle will become offensive.
How to Use Vermouth in Cocktails: Manhattans, Martinis and Beyond
Once you’ve made the decision to use high quality vermouth in your cocktails, the next step is to include more of it. Or, combine multiple styles for added complexity. You’ll find that the flavor of a well-made vermouth shines in gin Martinis, where the botanicals of the vermouth enhance those of the gin, and vice-versa. And vermouth adds flavor to a vodka Martini, which can be too alcohol-forward and lack energy without vermouth. The next time you mix up a cocktail, try one of these vermouth-forward twists on classics.
Perfect Manhattan
Replacing half of the sweet vermouth with dry vermouth makes this variation light on its feet. Experiment with extra dry or blanc versions to find your preferred level of sweetness.
- ½ part sweet vermouth
- ½ part extra dry, dry or blanc vermouth
- 2 parts Bourbon or rye
Stir vermouths, whiskey and a dash of your favorite bitters over ice, strain into a coupe and garnish with a cherry.
Reverse Martini
Heavier on the vermouth and lighter on the spirit makes for a tasty and temperate drink. Extra dry vermouths work well, but so will dry and even blanc bottlings.
- 1 part gin (or vodka)
- 2 parts extra dry, dry or blanc vermouth
Stir gin (or vodka), vermouth and a dash of orange bitters over ice, strain into a Nick and Nora and garnish with an olive or lemon twist.
50-50 Martini
The 50-50 Martini is a bartender’s darling. The 1-to-1 vermouth-to-spirit ratio shines in other classics, like the Capitán (vermouth and pisco) and the Adonis (vermouth and fino Sherry). Best of all, it richly rewards vermouth experimentation.
- 1 part vermouth
- 1 part gin (or vodka)
Shake or stir vermouth, gin (or vodka) and your favorite bitters over ice and strain into a Martini glass. Garnish as desired.
Best Vermouth Cocktails
Beyond the Martini and Manhattan, vermouth shines in plenty of other classic cocktails. Experiment with vermouths, base spirits, bitters and garnishes—as well as ratios—to find your preferred concoction.
Negroni
Sweet vermouth, gin and Italian bitter (such as Campari), typically in equal parts
Boulevardier
Sweet vermouth, whiskey (often Bourbon) and Italian bitter, often in equal parts
Hanky Panky
Sweet vermouth, gin and Fernet, often in equal parts, though some recipes use a smaller portion of Fernet
Americano
Sweet vermouth and Italian bitter, typically in equal parts, sometimes topped with soda
Rob Roy
Sweet vermouth, Scotch whisky and bitters. The standard ratio is two parts whisky to one part vermouth.
El Capitán
Vermouth and pisco in equal parts
Adonis
Vermouth and Sherry in equal parts
Popular Vermouth Brands to Try Now
The variety of vermouth being produced today is astonishing. These top selections from our recent tasting include classics and boutiques and are a good place to begin your explorations. Prices given are for 750ml bottles unless otherwise noted.
Extra Dry, Dry and Blanc
Bordiga Extra Dry
Italy | $32 | 18% alcohol by volume (ABV)
This workhorse shines by itself or in a wet Martini. Bordiga’s Excelsior, an aged Barolo-based rosso, is also worth seeking out. Key lime, orange flower, toasted fennel seed, rosemary, thyme.
Chazalettes & Co. Extra Dry
Italy | $30 | 18% ABV
Highly perfumed and floral, this head-turner deserves a place in your rotation. Try a splash to jazz up a French 75, or sip it as a whimsical aperitif. Grapefruit pith, lime flower, Meyer lemon, lavender, mandarin orange.
Dolin Blanc
France | $18 | 16% ABV
The first blanc Vermouth de Chambéry, Dolin is subtle, elegant and stylish. Don’t be afraid to sip this classic neat. Lemon, baked pear, toasted coconut, cinnamon, bitter almond.
González Byass La Copa Extra Dry
Spain | $26 | 17% ABV
This fino-based vermouth from the distinguished Sherry house is friendly, with a slightly taut mouthfeel. Try it in a dirty Martini. Marcona almond, salted caramel, lemon zest, graham cracker, sweet pickle.
La Quintinye Royal Blanc
France | $27 | 16% ABV
Made in Cognac from a blend of white wine and Pineau des Charentes, this is syrupy, with pretty fruit notes. Tangerine, green apple, soursop, sweet bubblegum, hazelnut.
Martini & Rossi Riserva Speciale Ambrato
Italy | $24 | 18% ABV
Launched in 2015, Ambrato is the legacy brand’s higher-end version of a dry vermouth. A kiss of sweetness makes this ideal for a spritz—or a not-so-dry Martini. The Rubino, its sweet sibling, is also worth trying. Quinine, juniper, Yellow Delicious apple, brandied pear, animal cracker.
Oka Bermutto
Japan | $31 | 18% ABV
Made with a base of junmai sake, fortified with shochu and aromatized with Japanese botanicals, this fascinating, subtle vermouth invites cocktail possibilities galore. Yuzu, fruit punch, pineapple, Rainier cherry, honeysuckle.
Pio Cesare
Italy | $70 | 16% ABV
The venerable Piedmont estate revived production of this majestic blanc vermouth (along with their excellent Barolo Chinato) in 2016 from a family recipe dating to the late 19th century. With its Moscato and Chardonnay base, this belongs in your wineglass. Candied pecan, rose, Seville orange, black walnut, lemon curd, pear syrup, alpine herbs.
T. W. Hollister & Co. Oso de Oro Dry
California | $36 | 16% ABV
Produced in Santa Barbara using local botanicals, this is stylish, spicy and assertive. Try it in a perfect Manhattan, or to accent a whisky mule. Quince, pear, chamomile, coriander, white pepper, pine.
Sweet
Carpano Antica Formula
Italy | $35 | 16.5% ABV
The original go-to, Antica is rich and brooding, great for wintertime sipping on its own, in a summery spritz or matched with assertive spirits. Swanky vanilla, orange peel, date syrup, chocolate mint.
Cocchi Dopo Teatro
Italy | $24/500ml | 16% ABV
Inspired by the Torino tradition of sipping vermouth after the theater, this has Barolo Chinato added to the base wine and a double infusion of cinchona for extra bitterness. Exquisite, and a great value. Cherry liqueur, wild strawberry, balsamic, leather, cacao, fenugreek, mint, sweet rhubarb.
Dionese’s
New York | $30 | 20% ABV
A creative take on the Torino style, this exuberant vermouth pops with energy. Try a splash of this in a gin and tonic. Red plum, Pink Lady apple, strawberry bubblegum, hay, thyme.
Family of Hounds
Italy | $29 | 18% ABV
Solidly built yet light on its feet, this versatile, friendly vermouth is produced by a new company that also makes interesting gin and vodka. Blood orange, mocha, tobacco, quinine, mesquite.
Lustau
Spain | $25 | 15% ABV
Launched in 2015, this is classically styled, with the amontillado and Pedro Ximénez Sherry base shining through. Salted toffee, raspberry, quince paste, pretzel, marjoram, sage.
Mancino Vecchio
Italy | $170 | 16% ABV
This collectible vermouth spends a year in a single Italian oak barrel, and production is limited to 800 bottles. For contemplative moments. Dried peppermint, saddle leather, tart cherry, mace, roasted chestnut.
Method
New York | $20 | 18% ABV
A new project using hybrid grapes from the Finger Lakes, this has an intense, playful nose and invites a range of cocktail possibilities. Black licorice, sassafras, cherry cola, eucalyptus, sweet rhubarb.
Navazos Palazzi
Spain | $32 | 17.5% ABV
A collaboration between the boutique Sherry négociant Equipo Navazos and the importer Nicolas Palazzi, this standout boasts a base of oloroso Sherry aged five years in oak. Red currant, pumpkin pie spices, Mexican chocolate, salted nougat.
Vya
California | $24 | 16% ABV
From Central Valley’s Quady Winery, Vya put California vermouth on the map in the 1990s. Try this in your next Manhattan or Rob Roy. Tart cherry, cilantro, cinnamon, pine bark, eucalyptus.
