It’s simple wine logic: Beef needs big reds. Or does it? Sommeliers across the country have successfully broken the mold with their wine pairings, going beyond beloved classics like steak and Cabernet Sauvignon, and experimenting with a gamut of lighter reds, sparklers and, dare we say it, white wines and sweeter wines. To get some prime tips, Wine Spectator reached out to sommeliers who run award-winning steak house wine programs from Boston to Seattle, asking what bottles they would suggest for an adventurous wine lover to pair with steak. From Washington’s Rhône-style reds to young ruby Port, these pairings are a cut above the rest!
Steven McDonald, executive beverage director for Grand Award-winning Pappas Bros. Steakhouses in Dallas and Houston
Surprisingly, my most unexpected steak pairing is rosé Champagne. Well-structured rosé Champagne can stand up to leaner cuts of beef and create an entirely different gastronomic experience. Great acid and slight tannins in complex, vinous rosé Champagne can support the steak and leave the guest more refreshed. Vintage Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé Cuvée Elisabeth, vintage Pol Roger Brut Rosé and vintage Paul Bara Brut Rosé Spécial Club come immediately to mind.
Jonathan Kearns, wine director of Best of Award of Excellence winner Carne Mare in Nashville
I love to reach for the somewhat lesser-known Aglianico wines from Campania and Basilicata. The wines are incredibly diverse in style, from the somewhat lighter and more red fruited style of Marco Tinessa’s Ognostro to the power of the Quintodecimo wines and the rustic nobility of the classic Mastroberardino Radici bottlings. This always assertive, yet distinctly Italian varietal has the range to match any piece of beef you pair alongside it.
Victoria James, executive beverage director at Best Award of Excellence–winning Cote Korean Steakhouses in Miami and New York City, and Coqodaq in New York City
At Cote Korean Steakhouse, we love a good bottle of Burgundy. Leaner reds, for sure, but for an unexpected pairing, a white Burgundy is a revelation with steak and banchan [small side dishes]. You want freshness but also a little oxidation and perhaps age, so we are seeing more people go towards heftier whites with their red meats! Favorite white Burgundies with age like Ampeau, Dujac, Domaine Roulot, and A&P de Villaine are flying off the cellar shelves.
Andy Chabot, senior vice president of food and beverage at Grand Award winner Blackberry Farm, Walland, Tenn.
I’ve done several tastings that focus on this very question. Or rather, focus on trying different wines with a bit of steak. The main theme that always shows is it’s not the steak, it’s the sauce that really matters. When you use a Hollandaise or Béarnaise sauce, a white Burgundy or American Chardonnay with oak is great! When you have an au poivre sauce, try a young ruby Port—it’ll change your life. Tomato-based sauce? Sangiovese from Tuscany! [This can include Chianti and Brunello.] When trying steak with an olive tapenade or puttanesca type of sauce, lean on Syrah from Sonoma Coast or the Northern Rhône. It’s endlessly surprising how the steak somewhat fades into the background and the pairing is actually based on the wine and the sauce.
Simon Roberts, co-owner and beverage director at Award of Excellence winner Tango Room, Dallas
I recently paired the Sine Qua Non Distenta 11 2020 [a Rhône blend from Ventura County, California] with a classic N.Y Strip. It’s a Grenache-based red that reminds me of the great Château Rayas from Châteauneuf-de-Pape. It shows pretty, big red fruit on the palate, and it’s extremely well-balanced. It was a superb complement to the steak; at Tango, chef Corrin Ellis has a secret seasoning that is celery salt–based and added after the sear. It marries perfectly with a nuanced red like Sine Qua Non Grenache.
Alex Cuper, beverage director of Award of Excellence winner El Che and recently opened Brasero in Chicago
Right now, Carignan has become my absolute favorite steak wine. While it always makes sense to have big bold reds like Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, I find it appealing to lean the other way with a nice contrasting flavor profile to the steak. Carignan—especially from Itata Valley, Chile—tends to have this bright acidity that acts as a palate cleanser between bites of steak, with the classic spice shining through at the end making you want to go back for more beef. It’s a delightful cycle.
Amy Mundwiler, national director of wine and beverage for Best of Award of Excellence winners Maple & Ash in Chicago and Scottsdale, Ariz.
My absolute favorite thing to do is offer up sexy alternatives to what people usually pair with our cuts of beef. The go-to is Cabernet Sauvignon, and while that isn't a wrong answer, there are a few other showstoppers that I love to turn people on to. A high-acid, high-tannin Barolo with some age, a peppery Syrah from the Rhône. We have an IDGAF wine pairing option at Maple & Ash where the guest leaves things completely in our hands, and that’s when we go in with a few surprises. If you have an open mind, we’re gonna blow your mind!
Thomas Kakalios, wine director of Award of Excellence winner Asador Bastian in Chicago
Pairing a Blanc de Noirs sparkling wine from a small grower-producer—be it Cava or Champagne—with a Basque feast culminating in our iconic txuletón [large rib] steaks is a knockout pairing. Our guests allow us to curate tastings for them, focusing on seafood, seasonal vegetables and, of course, beef. The elevated acidity and effervescence of sparkling wine acts like a natural reset button for the palate, allowing each bite to taste like the first bite. Blanc de Noirs wines appear white but are made entirely from red grapes, so have the structure to stand up to a beautiful cut of meat, but the versatility to showcase the nuanced flavors coming from our kitchen.
Henk Schuitemaker, wine director of Grand Award winner Angus Barn in Raleigh, N.C.
I had invited two great friends over for a steak dinner at my house—I was grilling some Angus Barn ribeyes. They brought over several bottles of Klet Brda Bagueri Ribolla Gialla from Slovenia. I was completely intrigued, especially when I found this to be a wonderful match with the steak. High acid cut through the fat of the steak and the wine’s full body matched the weight of the steak. Lovely citrus and mineral finish enhanced the flavors of both the meat and the wine.
Renato Bringas, wine director for Best of Award of Excellence winner Andiron in Houston
Living in Texas, where the weather stays warm for much of the year, I often find myself drawn to Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo [a rosé from Italy]. Its refreshing qualities and balanced acidity make it a great choice, especially when paired with steak, providing both refreshment and a satisfying dining experience in the heat.
Ryan Fletter, beverage director of Grand Award winner Barolo Grill in Denver
In one of my many Italian sojourns, I stumbled upon a Langhe Nebbiolo from G.D. Vajra called Clare J.C and what is fascinating is that it is made by partial whole cluster fermentation! Nebbiolo typically lends itself to big structured wines like Barolo and Barbaresco, but this one speaks rather like great Beaujolais. Try having beef tagliata sliced on the plate paired with this red wine; the aroma is floral like violets and crunchy like pomegranates. It also has an earthiness of fresh mushrooms and truffles and finishes with a zippy acidity that just makes your mouth salivate.
Chris Lara, wine director of Grand Award winner Metropolitan Grill in Seattle
Steak and wine have become my life. While we enjoy bringing the usual favorites like Silver Oak or Caymus or Leonetti, we also like to have a "trick" up our sleeves for those willing to venture. One of these wines—an all-around crowd-pleaser from Washington, in the Southern Rhône-style category—is Upsidedown’s “Gold Drop,” a Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah blend. This wine has it all: Incredible fruit profile, attractive tannins (the all-important pairing with steak), and a long, yet elegant finish. Another wine, especially with filet mignon, is Valfaccenda’s Roero Rosso Riserva from the famed Valmaggiore vineyard. Baby Barolo in all but name and without the steep price tag. It’s a firm Nebbiolo structure that will hold up to a lean cut like filet mignon or a richer cut like a sirloin from Snake River Farms.
Hugo Bensimon, beverage director for Grand Award winner Grill 23 & Bar in Boston
My best unexpected wine pairing with steak is Alsatian Riesling, more specifically Trimbach. The ideal pairing is Clos Ste.-Hune, but on more of a budget, the Frédéric Emile works great too! The level of acidity in Riesling can trick your mouth into thinking it’s tannin! This way, the texture of the wine works great with a piece of steak.
Clarke Anderson, beverage director for Rocket Farm Restaurants, including Best of Award of Excellence winner Marcel in Atlanta and Award of Excellence winner State of Grace in Houston
While we sometimes think of red Burgundy as a lighter-bodied wine, there are ‘beefy’ wines coming from villages like Corton-Charlemagne, Volnay and Pommard. Ask your sommelier to help you choose a selection from Burgundy that has the power, structure and body that your steak needs. Some will overlook the Beaune when pairing with red meat, but the finesse of Pinot Noir can make a steak so much more enjoyable and celebrate the flavor of the beef.
Dylan Amos, wine director of Grand Award winner Delmonico Steakhouse and Best of Award of Excellence winner Emeril’s New Orleans Fish House, Las Vegas
I just can’t get enough of A5 Wagyu and Dom Pérignon. The complexity of the beverage and the meat makes a very happy marriage. Dom’s phenolic bitterness melts as its structural elements are completed by the Wagyu’s intense marbling. This is true decadence and also works very well on an intellectual level.
