Small bites are crucial for New Year’s Eve festivities, from oysters slurped down in the blink of an eye to tiny piles of caviar precariously placed on potato chips. Save some room in your spread for these two ssambap rice rolls from celebrated chef Junghyun “JP” Park’s The Korean Cookbook (Phaidon, 2023). Chef Park and his wife, Ellia, are the owners of NA:EUN Hospitality, a New York City restaurant group lauded for helping to develop and set a new standard for Korean fine dining in the U.S., with Award of Excellence winner Atoboy and Best of Award of Excellence winners Naro and Atomix.
The Korean Cookbook was a daunting project for Park, beyond being his first cookbook; the creation of this 350-recipe tome consisted of a three-year-long journey into the nuances of Hansik, or Korean culinary traditions. To tackle this massive feat, Park partnered with Jungyoon Choi, a Korea-based chef and culinary historian who trained in Spain at both the Alícia Foundation and El Bulli. Their friendship began around 20 years ago while living in Seoul, when they were both part of an online community for young chefs in the city, bonding over their shared love of Hansik.
“To share this journey together as friends and professionals who have both dedicated our lives to the art of culinary culture, with our roots firmly in Hansik, was a foundational strength in our collaboration,” Park told Wine Spectator via email. “We learned so much together and, believe it or not, never had an argument—just debates.”
The end product, Park believes, is “a book that will continue to give and evolve,” not only for people who love Korean home cooking or are studying gastronomy today but for those in the future. To achieve that goal, the biggest challenge for Choi and Park was “taking the personal out of the narrative” and viewing these recipes from a more objective perspective.
“Rather than a simple collection of recipes, we really focused on the storytelling aspect of how the book was written. We identified key building blocks of the Korean table and organized it in this way, to tell the overarching story of how Koreans eat, not just what,” explains Park. “This was a discovery process for us as well, to really think about the framework of Korean cuisine, what makes it unique. The essential human aspect of the act of cooking, eating, sharing and how it builds this culinary culture was as important to us as the technical aspect of the recipes, and we hope that the collection of recipes, essays and notes in the book successfully delivers that to the reader.”
One section that exemplifies those technical yet intangible aspects of Korean food traditions is the one devoted to ssambap, simply lettuce-wrapped rice. To Park, ssambap is a very casual part of Korean dining, akin to having a bread basket on the table to sop up sauces in European homes; a Korean table would have some sort of green to wrap meats, vegetables, banchan (side dishes) and sauces together into one perfect mouthful.
“While there are a number of remarkable Korean BBQ or hwe (raw seafood) restaurants in Korea that I have enjoyed ssam in,” says Park, “I would say the best memories are the ones shared with family and friends in more informal settings, whether in our homes or outdoors on a trip, eating fresh grilled meats or freshly butchered seafood in our favorite, fresh combinations of herbs and vegetables.”
These pre-wrapped rolls are a great option for long parties, as a pop-in-your-mouth, savory and slightly spicy treat that fits in with a full spread of other dishes. The first variation is a cabbage and squash-leaf ssambap, lightly fragranced with sesame oil and ssamjang—a dipping sauce made with doenjang, a fermented soybean paste. (Many of these items can be found at specialty Asian grocer or ordered easily online.) If squash leaves are harder to find during the winter, then you can make the rolls entirely using cabbage.
After that, try the ssambap rolled in perilla leaves; one of the most widely eaten herbs in Korea, they “are fragrant and almost minty,” explains Park. “It has a great balance of lightly bitter herbaceousness with a floral, vegetal fragrance that fills the mouth without overpowering other flavors. Its soft and delicate texture can be enjoyed raw, as in ssam, but is also often used as a garnish to hot dishes, as the aroma is great with a range of hearty or spicy flavors.”
The perilla-leaf version is stuffed with rice mixed with “stir-fried gochujang,” in which a hot pepper paste is fortified with meat, sugar and aromatics—creating an all-at-once sweet, salty, herbal and umami-packed bite.
While everyone has their mind on bubbles for New Years Eve (us included), a good mix of still whites and reds is essential for any party. For a pairing with the ssambap bites, Wine Spectator asked Jhonel Faelnar, the beverage director of NA:EUN Hospitality group. Especially for the herbaceous perilla leaf wraps, Faelnar would go for an unoaked white wine with a little zest to it, like an Albariño from Rias Baixas in Spain. He pointed to the 2022 Albariño from Âmevive, a wine producer in California’s Santa Barbara County that specializes in Rhône and Spanish grape varieties, which he enjoys for its “bright, fresh fruit coupled with a pleasant roundness.”
Following Faelnar’s lead, our editors have selected 12 fantastic Spanish white wines to bring along to any holiday party, perfect to stretch out the bubbly and keep the festive vibes flowing.
Excerpted from The Korean Cookbook Copyright (c) 2023. Used with permission of the publisher, Phaidon. All rights reserved.
Squash Leaf & Cabbage Ssambap
Ingredients
- 8 green cabbage leaves
- 8 squash leaves
- Scant 2 cups (350 grams) cooked short-grain white rice (recipe below)
- 3 tablespoons ssamjang (dipping sauce for ssam)
- 1 tablespoon sesame oil
Preparation
1. Set up a steamer and bring the water to a boil.
2. Add the cabbage and squash leaves to the steamer basket, set over the boiling water, and steam for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature in a sieve.
3. In a bowl, combine the cooked rice, ssamjang and sesame oil and mix well until uniform. Using hands, form into balls 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter and set aside.
4. To make the ssambap, spread out the squash and cabbage leaves on a flat surface. Place the seasoned rice balls in the center of each leaf and wrap carefully with the leaf to finish. Serves 4.
Cooked Short-Grain White Rice
Ingredients
- 2 cups (440 grams) short-grain white rice
Preparation
1. In a bowl, wash the rice in three or four changes of water until it is clear. Add fresh water to the bowl and let the rinsed rice soak for 30 minutes. Drain in a sieve to get rid of any excess water.
2. In a pot, combine the soaked rice and 2 1/2 cups (590 milliliters) water, cover with a lid and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to the minimum heat level and let steam for 5 minutes. Fluff the rice with a spatula. Makes 4 cups.
Perilla Ssambap
Ingredients
- 16 perilla leaves (also sold as shiso or sesame leaves)
- Scant 2 cups (350 grams) cooked short-grain white rice
- 4 tablespoons stir-fried gochujang (recipe below)
- 1 tablespoon sesame oil
- 1 tablespoon sesame seeds
Preparation
1. Set up a steamer and bring the water to a boil. Set up a large bowl of ice and water.
2. Add the perilla leaves to the steamer basket, set it over the boiling water and lightly steam for 1 minute. Remove and transfer to the ice bath to cool down. Once completely cooled, remove leaves from the water, squeeze gently to remove any excess water and let dry flat.
3. In a large bowl, combine the cooked rice with the stir-fried gochujang, sesame oil and sesame seeds and mix well until uniform. Using hands, form into rice balls 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter.
4. Place a rice ball on top of the rough side (back side) of each perilla leaf and wrap well. Plate and serve. Serves around 4.
Stir-Fried Gochujang
Ingredients
- 1 teaspoon ganjang (Korean soy sauce that’s lighter in color and saltier than Japanese soy sauces. Adjust for taste if using another style.)
- 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
- 1 teaspoon minced scallion (spring onion)
- 1/2 teaspoon sugar
- 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1 1/2 teaspoons sesame oil
- 1 3/4 ounces (150 grams) ground (minced) beef
- 2/3 cup (150 grams) gochujang (fermented red chile paste)
- 7 tablespoons Korean pear juice (or other low-sugar pear juice)
Preparation
1. In a large bowl, combine the soy sauce, garlic, scallion, sugar, black pepper and 1/2 teaspoon of the sesame oil. Fold in the beef and let marinate for five minutes.
2. In a pan, stir-fry the marinated beef over low heat for 5 minutes. Add the gochujang and pear juice and stir-fry until the excess moisture is gone, about 10 more minutes. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon sesame oil and stir-fry over medium-low heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat.
3. Once cooled, transfer to an airtight container. Store in the refrigerator. The stir-fried gochujang will keep well for 3 days in the refrigerator.
12 Fantastic Spanish Whites to Keep the Party Going
Note: The following list is a selection of outstanding and very good wines from recently rated releases. More options for wines can be found in our Wine Ratings Search here.
QUINTA COUSELO
Albariño Rias Baixas Turonia 2021
Score: 92 | $26
WS Review: A succulent white, with hints of petrol and brine serving as a minerally underpinning for concentrated flavors of poached apricot and yellow peach, mandarin orange peel, dried tarragon and Marcona almond. Crisp, lightly spiced finish. Drink now through 2028. 3,300 cases made, 1,015 cases imported.—Alison Napjus
JORGE ORDOÑEZ & CO.
Moscatel Sierras de Málaga Botani Old Vines 2022
Score: 91 | $22
WS Review: A dry, aromatic white, with mouthwatering acidity and a chalky underpinning, this refreshing sipper shows notes of nectarine, lime blossoms, pink grapefruit granita, fresh tarragon and pickled ginger. Very appealing. Drink now through 2025. 7,500 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.—A.N.
VIRGEN DEL GALIR
Godello Valdeorras Val do Galir A Malosa-Éntoma 2022
Score: 91 | $22
WS Review: A well-knit white, creamy and light- to medium-bodied. Features a fragrant edge of fresh tarragon and pine accenting the yellow plum and grapefruit sorbet flavors, as well as rich hints of vanilla and grilled macadamia nut. Salty, lingering finish. Drink now through 2028. 2,900 cases made, 400 cases imported.—A.N.
BODEGAS LA CANA
Albariño Rias Baixas La Caña 2022
Score: 91 | $25
WS Review: Shows a creamy texture that carries focused flavors of poached apricot and tangerine fruit, lemon-infused pastry cream and accents of dried tarragon and pink peppercorn. A lithe white, well-knit and lightly mouthwatering, with a salty undertow driving the lingering finish. Drink now through 2026. 23,000 cases made, 20,000 cases imported.—A.N.
BODEGAS TERRAS GAUDA
Rias Baixas O Rosal 2022
Score: 91 | $28
WS Review: A linear white, with good drive and focus to the flavors of mandarin orange, wild strawberry, grated ginger and fresh tarragon. Though svelte in form, this has a light, pleasing plushness to the texture, which works well with the mouthwatering acidity and briny base note. Albariño, Caiño and Loureiro. Drink now through 2028. 1,344 cases imported.—A.N.
FRORE DE CARME
Rias Baixas Eat Your Heart Out Envidiacochina 2021
Score: 91 | $33
WS Review: A ripe, expressive white structured by bright acidity and a lightly chalky texture, this shows concentrated flavors of apple peel, baked peach, honeycomb and chamomile. Long and silky, with a minerally, saline-laced finish. Drink now through 2028. 9,000 cases made, 4,810 cases imported.—A.N.
VAL DE MEIGAS
Albariño Rias Baixas 2022
Score: 90 | $18
WS Review: Floral on the nose, this vivacious and well-balanced white offers flavors of melon, lime, pink grapefruit zest and nectarine on the palate, along with salty minerality. Drink now. 1,000 cases imported.—A.N.
ERREKALDE
Hondarrabi Zuri Getariako Txakolina Baskoli 2022
Score: 90 | $24
WS Review: This linear white has a light, pleasing spritz to it and well-knit acidity that crackles on the palate, layered with notes of white peach, elderflower and lime and pink grapefruit zest. Drink now. 6,000 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—A.N.
BODEGAS EMILIO MORO
Godello Bierzo El Zarzal 2020
Score: 90 | $30
WS Review: A lithe, light-bodied white, with bright acidity buoying flavors of pear, star fruit, grapefruit peel and Marcona almond. Clean-cut and refreshing, with a minerally finish. Drink now through 2026. 4,200 cases made, 1,600 cases imported.—A.N.
AGRO DE BAZÁN
Albariño Rias Baixas Granbazán Etiqueta Ambar 2022
Score: 90 | $33
WS Review: A lithe, mouthwatering white, with peach skin and nectarine, pickled ginger and jasmine notes. Well-balanced and fresh, with a tang of salinity driving the finish. Drink now. 12,500 cases made, 3,500 cases imported.—A.N.
BODEGAS FILLABOA
Albariño Rias Baixas 2022
Score: 89 | $20
WS Review: This creamy white is backed by citrusy acidity, with exotic hints of jasmine and cardamom accenting notes of pineapple, lime zest, minerally oyster shell and smoke. Drink now. 15,000 cases made, 1,900 cases imported.—A.N.
BODEGA CUATRO RAYAS
Verdejo Rueda Palacio de Vivero 2021
Score: 88 | $12
WS Review: Bright and light-bodied, this shows lime zest-infused flavors of crunchy white peach, tangerine, fresh tarragon and white blossoms, with a hint of saline on the snappy finish. Drink now. 30,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—A.N.
