Chefs’ Challenge Brings the Laughs and the Flavor

José Andrés, Eric Ripert, Emeril Lagasse and Danny Meyer go glass-to-glass with senior editor Bruce Sanderson in our annual wine-and-food pairing competition

From left: Danny Meyer, José Andrés, Eric Ripert and Emeril Lagasse drinking red wine — For the second year in a row, this group of restaurant moguls—from left, Danny Meyer, José Andrés, Eric Ripert and Emeril Lagasse—put their wine pairing skills to the test. (Rick Wenner / Wine rack courtesy of WineRacks.com)

Julia Larson

Oct 30, 2023

What happens when you combine four culinary stars, eight fantastic wines, 900 opinionated wine lovers and one Wine Spectator editor on the rocks? You get the annual New York Wine Experience Chefs’ Challenge.

The premise is simple: Each chef prepares a dish, for which another chef and senior editor Bruce Sanderson has picked a match. After tasting each dish with the wines, the crowd votes on which pairing they think is best.

In the ring were all returning veterans: José Andrés, founder of World Central Kitchen and owner of José Andrés Group restaurants; Emeril Lagasse, television star and owner of Wine Spectator Grand Award–winning Emeril’s and Delmonico Steakhouse; Eric Ripert, chef and partner of Grand Award winner Le Bernardin in New York City; and Danny Meyer, executive chairman of Union Square Hospitality Group, which includes Grand Award winner the Modern in New York City.

A plate showing José Andrés' eggplant, Emeril Lagasse's chickpeas and bacalão, Danny Meyer's mackerel, and Eric Ripert's pistachio desert..

Clockwise from top left: José Andrés' eggplant, Emeril Lagasse's chickpeas and bacalão, Danny Meyer's mackerel and Eric Ripert's pistachio dessert. (Daphne Youree)

Last year, Sanderson went 0-3 with a tie, so for 2023 he was looking for his comeback. “It was my rookie season,” he explained. “I’m looking for revenge … I thought about hiding a bottle of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti under all of [the guests’] chairs. But this year, I decided to double down and really find terrific pairings that will go with each chef’s dish.”

The first dish, drawing inspiration from Spain and Japan, came from the menu of Andrés’ the Bazaar restaurant in New York City. On the plate was a silky cut of eggplant roasted in honey and savory miso, then topped with smoky pine nuts, crispy pearls of rice and fresh chive blossoms.

Ripert and Le Bernardin wine director Aldo Sohm picked an Alsatian Riesling from the Trimbach family, wanting a wine to cut through the eggplant’s creaminess and smokiness. Sanderson’s choice was distinctly different: a light-bodied Nerello Mascalese from Sicily. To him, the smokiness of roasted eggplant was meant to pair with a red, one that’s fruity, with its own smoky note and light tannins. “Bruce, when I saw your choice, I was very happy about my choice,” ribbed Ripert.

A server pours glasses of Trimbach riesling.

Eric Ripert matched the eggplant with a Riesling made by one of the most acclaimed families in Alsace. (Daphne Youree)

“I can see what you were going for with the volcanic soils, but I think this dish needed a bit more maturity,” Andrés explained, before teasing Sanderson. “Bruce, you really need to be speaking to the eggplant when you are doing these pairings. It’ll tell you it needs older wines.”

Andrés told Ripert that the Riesling pairing was an inspired choice, because it matched the dish in sweetness with a bit of age for backbone. The audience agreed, leaving Sanderson in the dust for this round.

Lagasse, a 21-year veteran of the Challenge, pulled a Portuguese dish straight from his childhood—a plate of pureed, garlicky chickpeas, bacalão (salted cod), dried olives and a topping of paprika-dusted rice. Sanderson said he learned from his mistake last year of not pairing Lagasse’s food with Portuguese wine, so this year he selected a bottle from Quinta do Crasto, a white blend of the local Viosinho and Verdelho varieties. Filled with honeysuckle and citrus, the wine had spent time in oak, giving it some body and “smokiness.” Like Ripert, Meyer also chose an Alsatian Riesling, noting how the grape is underrated for its versatility with food pairings.

Panel on stage at New York Wine Experience with senior editor Bruce Sanderson, Emeril Lagasse, José Andrés, Danny Meyer, and Eric Ripert.

Bruce Sanderson and the restaurateurs all had their game faces on. (Daphne Youree)

“Don’t be mad at me, Danny,” said Ripert. “Emeril explained to me that this dish is from his mother. It’s a very rustic dish, but it’s very complex … You need a bit of acidity to create a contrast and wake up the taste buds, and I like Bruce’s more for that.”

Andrés also weighed in, saying that the Riesling was a bit too clean and precise with this dish. The crowd enthusiastically agreed, and Sanderson walked away with his first-ever Chefs’ Challenge win.

Server holding a bottle of Quinta do Crasto.

Having learned from his mistakes last Wine Experience, Bruce Sanderson chose this Portuguese white to pair with Emeril’s dish. (Daphne Youree)

For his dish, Meyer tapped Lena Ciardullo, executive chef of Meyer’s first restaurant, Union Square Cafe, which was celebrating its 38th anniversary. Her dish was a riff on clams casino, with a fine sliver of melt-in-your-mouth Spanish mackerel topped with a “sopressata vinaigrette” and accented with pickled ramps.

With so many strong flavors, it posed a tricky challenge for Lagasse and Sanderson. Lagasse opted for a California Chardonnay from Paul Hobbs, thinking it could handle the oily fish and the spice. Sanderson, however, wanted a wine that would refresh the palate before each bite, so he selected the non-vintage Louis Roederer Brut Champagne Collection 244: “I figured, when in doubt, Champagne.”

“You guys need to think very hard on this; it will determine your futures as serious wine drinkers,” Andrés joked with the crowd. “I love the Chardonnay. I think the creaminess works so well … but I think the creaminess of the Champagne also goes well with the breadcrumbs and the texture of the fish. So, I’m going with both wines.”

As a result, this round of voting had three options: the Chardonnay, the Champagne and both. While some folks sided with Bruce and others with Emeril, those who liked both wines equally had a slight edge, making it a true tie. “I feel like the Speaker of the House,” said Andrés, who likes to riff off current events. “We are the power of the majority!”

The audience of New York Wine Experience voting for their favorite pairing, some with both hands.

"Vote with both your hands if you love both wines!" exclaimed José Andrés. (Daphne Youree)

In a Chefs’ Challenge first, Ripert served a dessert, tapping his executive pastry chef, Orlando Soto, to share one of his favorites and a popular item from Le Bernardin’s menu. Almost jewelry-like in its beauty, delicacy and intricacy, “the Pistachio” is a thin layer of pistachio praliné topped with an incredibly light Grand Marnier–laced bavarois and a sage green shell of white chocolate.

Andrés, ever the advocate for the wines of Spain, chose a Málaga dessert wine from Jorge Ordonez & Co., with notes of white flowers and vibrant acidity, which he thought would give it an edge. Sanderson presented a classic Sauternes, with a bit less acidity and the complex, honeyed notes from botrytis.

“I like both wines, but I’m leaning a bit more towards José’s,” explained Lagasse, causing Sanderson to roll his eyes. “The overall structure and balance of the sweetness is better. That’s just my opinion!”

Overhead shot of a guest drinking wine with a dozen wine glasses in front of him and a plate of food.

This spread was only a precursor to an even bigger lunch. (Daphne Youree)

“At the restaurant, we’d usually serve this very cold,” explained Ripert. “With this dessert being a little warmer, it’s presenting itself as richer and sweeter. Therefore, if this was at the restaurant, I would go for the Sauternes. But today, I am agreeing with José.”

Ultimately Andrés’ wine wiped the floor, leaving Sanderson with a record of 1-2 and a tie. “You know what, I think you should come back next year, Bruce,” Lagasse said with a smile.

Closing out the session, Meyer concluded, “The fact that we don’t 100 percent agree should give everyone confidence that the only palate worth considering is your own.”