Since I grew up with an Irish-American father, many might assume corned beef on St. Patrick’s Day would be a tradition in my house. But while we scarf more than our fair share of soda bread every third week of March, my dad always had one rule for this holiday: no corned beef. He seems to have never recovered from the trauma inflicted by years of brined beef boiled in cabbage until it was chewy as shoe leather, saltier than seawater and, well, pungent. This Irishman seems intent on holding a grudge.
Luckily I’m a proud New York mutt, with a Jewish side as well as an Irish one, which means I know how a good brisket should be cooked: low and slow with bold flavors until fork-tender and buttery soft. Corned beef is just a brisket that has been brined in salt to preserve the meat before cooking. So for this St. Patrick’s Day, I set out on a mission to make a corned beef even my gruff Irish dad would enjoy.
The inclusion of good wine with any meal always helps bring my family to the table, and lucky for me, Wine Spectator’s Dr. Vinny has a great answer for the commonly asked question this time of year: “Which wines pair best with corned beef?,” recommending some medium-bodied, food-friendly reds and whites from Southern France, Alsace and Germany.
Because this corned beef preparation leans more into savory-sweet flavors than salty, I went with Rhône Valley reds and Rieslings for this recipe. Off-dry, kabinett-style Rieslings have the racy acidity to cut through the richness of the roast, while their stone fruit and citrus flavors complement the sweetness of the glaze. In contrast, dark, fruit-forward Syrah-based reds from the Côtes du Rhône give sanguine energy to the beef and bring out the savory flavors of the tangy mustard and spicy peppercorns. Get 6 great value options from these categories below.
Every culture has a brisket, and Irish Americans have corned beef. The phrase “corned” was used to describe the method of preserving meat in rock salt, or “corns.” While most corned beef briskets now use a sodium nitrate liquid to preserve the meat, at the end of the day, it's just a pre-brined brisket. You can buy them in either point or flat cuts from most local butchers or supermarkets, especially around St. Paddy’s Day. The number of people you’re serving should dictate the size of your roast, with an approximate serving size of about 3/4 pound per person, but you may want to size up as this makes amazing sandwich leftovers that rival the best pastrami.
Now down to business. While the cooking process itself is probably one of the easiest brisket recipes you’ll find, it is important to rinse and soak the meat before cooking. The “corning” liquid, if not drained from the meat beforehand, will permeate the roast and overpower all other flavors. Once the meat has been drained, it's as simple as slathering it liberally with whole-grain Dijon mustard, cracked peppercorns and brown sugar. The meat will have a subtle salinity all on its own once the brine has been released.
While the meat can be cooked in a roasting pan covered in tin foil, I’d highly recommend using a Dutch oven if you have one. This will ensure your roast cooks evenly and doesn’t dry out or get tough from the liquid and fat cooking off prematurely. While any cooking liquid will do for this roast, I like to use Guinness—and not just because it’s Ireland’s national beer. The dark stout’s malty, rich and slightly tannic qualities are perfect for imbuing the brisket with the savory-sweet flavors we want here.
Finally, while it's always important to uncover the roast for its last 10 to 20 minutes of cooking, I would recommend using a broiler, if you have one, to attain an extra crispy, caramelized crust on top. The roast will achieve all the flavor and buttery tenderness of pastrami inside, with the texture of a crispy honeyed ham on the outside. It doesn’t get much better than that.
So the verdict? This is certainly the best St. Patrick’s Day roast you will ever make. My dad was so skeptical that I got him some cold cuts to have for dinner just in case, but soon the incredible smell that permeated the house made him go from skeptical to suspicious, as he insisted, “You can’t be cooking corned beef; it can’t possibly smell this good.” His suspicion finally turned to anticipation when the finished product was revealed. The thinly sliced, melt-in-your-mouth brisket with a crispy coating of caramelized glaze tasted just as good as it looked. Make it for your family this St. Patrick’s Day and see the results for yourself. Slainté!
The Best Corned Beef Recipe
Ingredients
- 1 corned beef brisket (a 3-pound point cut was used here)
- 1/2 cup whole grain Dijon mustard
- 3 to 4 tablespoons cracked peppercorns
- 1 1/2 cups packed brown sugar
- 20 to 24 fluid ounces (approximately 2 bottles or cans) of Guinness stout
Preparation
1. Preheat the oven to 325 ℉. While the oven heats up, rinse the brisket under cold water, removing all the brining liquid from the surface. Once the water runs clear, fill a pot or bowl with cold water and soak the brisket for 10 minutes, checking at the halfway point to see if the water has changed color. If the water is cloudy, drain and refill. You will know the brine has been fully removed from the brisket when the color of the meat has turned from bright red to a paler pink.
3. Once the brine is removed, pat the brisket dry and place it in a Dutch oven or roasting pan, fat side up. Liberally coat the meat on all sides with the mustard, using a silicon butter brush if you have one. Save about 3 tablespoons of mustard for the glaze.
4. Pat cracked peppercorns into the mustard, coating liberally on all sides. (I prefer larger cracks for added texture, but use whatever you have on hand or prefer).
5. Pat in the brown sugar on all sides, enough to cover the mustard beneath from view. Save 3 to 4 tablespoons of sugar for the final glaze.
6. Pour half of the Guinness into the bottom of the Dutch oven or roasting pan, enough so that it covers almost 1 inch of the meat but not much more.
7. Use either the lid of the Dutch oven or tin foil to cover the roast completely. Place in the preheated oven. After 1 to 1.5 hours, check on the roast and add the second portion of Guinness if needed, depending on how much liquid has cooked off. Cook for another 90 minutes or so.
8. After the second hour, start checking the internal temperature of the meat, aiming for 185 ℉ for a fully cooked, tender roast (a little hotter isn’t the end of the world). The general rule of thumb is that a brisket will cook at a 1:1 ratio of one hour per pound, meaning a 3-pound roast will require about 3 hours; however, the size and shape of the cut will determine how quickly it cooks, so don’t worry if it is taking more or less time than expected at this stage. Keep checking periodically.
9. Once the internal temperature of the roast is 185 ℉ or above, remove the lid or foil and drain the cooking liquid, saving three tablespoons or so for the glaze. Continue roasting for 10 minutes.
10. While the roast finishes baking, make a glaze from the final bits of mustard (3 tablespoons), brown sugar (3 tablespoons) and some more cracked pepper. Whisk in the 3 tablespoons or so of cooking liquid until a glaze-like texture is achieved.
11. Turn on the broiler for the final 5 to 10 minutes, making sure your oven rack isn’t too close to the top and that the roast is centrally located beneath the flame. Glaze the roast before broiling, and if you like an extra-crispy crust, add an extra sprinkle of brown sugar on top. Broil until the crust is a dark caramel brown to black, depending on preference.
12. Once the desired crust color is achieved, remove roast from the broiler, cover it and let it sit for 20 minutes before slicing and serving, to achieve a tender, easy-to-slice internal texture. Slice thinly against the grain or shred with a carving fork, and enjoy!
Colcannon Mashed Potatoes
Colcannon is a classic Irish dish of mashed potatoes and cabbage, with family recipes for this side staple passed down for hundreds of generations. Thus, everyone has their own opinion on the best potatoes to use, the best dairy products to add, whether the potatoes should be peeled or skin-on, and most importantly, the type of leafy greens to include. Personally, I like my colcannon simple: sautéed kale added to smashed golden potatoes with milk and butter, salt and pepper to taste.
To my mind, kale is the superior cabbage choice here, with its dark green color, superfood health benefits and earthy taste that harmonizes so well with potatoes. It also has the added bonus of being milder smelling than other cabbage greens, so if you have family, friends or cohabitants particularly sensitive to the scent of cruciferous veggies, kale is a great choice for making this dish. Colcannon is the perfect comfort food, decadent yet dead easy.
Ingredients
- 10 to 12 baby Yukon Gold potatoes
- 7 to 10 curly kale leaves, about 1 to 2 cups when chopped
- 8 tablespoons of butter
- 3/4 cup of milk
- Salt and pepper to taste
Preparation
1. Boil potatoes, skin on, for 15 to 20 minutes.
2. While potatoes are boiling, chop kale leaves into approximately 1 inch pieces, removing any excess stalks from below the leaves.
3. Using a small saucepan on medium-low heat, melt 2 tablespoons of butter. Add the kale and coat in the butter, stirring periodically until the leaves are soft and have reduced to about half their original size. The kale should appear glossy but not change in color.
4. Once potatoes are ready, remove from the pot and hand mash with the rest of the butter. Add milk and continue mashing until your personally preferred texture is achieved. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
5. Add sautéd kale, combining well, and serve.
6 Celebratory Value Wines to Pair with Corned Beef
Note: The following list is a selection of outstanding and very good wines from recently rated releases. More options can be found in our Wine Ratings Search.
Kabinett Rieslings from Germany
Dr. Loosen
Riesling Kabinett Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2022
Score: 90 | $28
WS Review: Warm and inviting, with a good balance between juicy ripeness and savory verve. Offers mouthwatering pink grapefruit acidity, while sun tea and orange marmalade notes add warmth. A well-integrated mineral spine keeps the energy high. Drink now through 2040. 1,000 cases made, 300 cases imported.—Kristen Bieler
Nik Weis St.-Urbans-Hof
Riesling Kabinett Mosel Wiltinger 2020
Score: 90 | $19
WS Review: Perfumed and intense, this white reveals lilac, earth, celery and peach aromas and flavors. This is backed by a spine of acidity, and shows concentration on the tactile finish. Drink now through 2027. 500 cases made, 388 cases imported.—Bruce Sanderson
Fritz Haag
Riesling Kabinett Mosel Juffer 2022
Score: 92 | $29
WS Review: A compelling version of the off-dry style, showing good concentration. Juicy apple and apricot flavors are cut with citrus zest and bitter-edged mineral notes, offsetting the sweetness nicely. A beam of racy acidity courses through, keeping this brisk, with a waft of smoke on the focused close. Drink now through 2032. 2,500 cases made, 224 cases imported.—K.B.
Reds from France's Côtes du Rhône
St.-Cosme
Côtes du Rhône 2022
Score: 90 | $21
WS Review: A hefty version of Côtes du Rhône, with a lot of stuffing, showing ripe black plum and black currant flavors layered with black pepper and grilled rosemary. Sturdy tannins hem in the creamy palate, with a kick of bitter mineral and graphite through the medium-length finish. Very solid. Drink now through 2028. 27,000 cases imported.—K.B.
Alain Voge
Côtes du Rhône Les Peyrouses 2021
Score: 90 | $25
WS Review: A racy, vibrant version, with a meaty iodine note infusing a base of raspberry and cassis. Shows nice ripeness for the vintage, with singed incense and baked earth accents. Gains drive from a graphite spine, which also firms up the supple palate. Solid. Drink now. 1,250 cases made, 400 cases imported.—K.B.
Domaine de Mourchon
Côtes du Rhône-Villages Séguret Grande Réserve 2021
Score: 90 | $25
WS Review: Notes of dusty earth and dried flowers are built on a foundation of iron, surrounding a core of brambly berry flavors, while chalky tannins are edged in graphite and bitter herbs. Well-seasoned with singed mesquite and orange pith, this is a solid version with a nice life ahead. Grenache and Syrah. Drink now through 2028. 1,300 cases made.—K.B.
