When chef Johan Björklund opened the doors to Le Bistro de l’Hôtel in spring 2007, it was a welcome addition to the dining scene in Burgundy’s wine capital and an ideal spot to enjoy the region’s wines. Nearly 20 years later, it remains one of the best addresses for enjoying Burgundy’s bounty.
Le Bistro is a classic restaurant in Beaune, a thriving city that anchors one of the most popular wine tourism destinations in France; each year, thousands of Burgundy lovers, importers, buyers and sommeliers visit nearby vineyards and cellars. In 2015, Burgundy’s vineyards were granted World Heritage status by UNESCO.
Le Bistro de l’Hôtel began as a restaurant for the adjoining Hôtel de Beaune, which was founded by Björklund in 2002 and comprises a mix of historical buildings that embody the cultural heritage and architectural history of Beaune.
The hotel quickly became a mecca for collectors and industry insiders for its contemporary elegance, luxury and central location at the ancient center of the city. In addition to serving the hotel guests, the new restaurant also became a destination for local winemakers and their clients.
Le Bistro entered Wine Spectator’s Restaurant Awards program in 2008, earning a Best of Award of Excellence. Little by little, Björklund and his team added more wines to the list, increasing the number of selections. It currently boasts 2,000 different choices, with an inventory that is 10,000 bottles deep and worth about $1.1 million. The team is working with more and more winemakers each year to improve both the list’s breadth and depth.
The current sommeliers are Frédéric Gille and Colin Laurencery. “I leave a lot up to my sommeliers, but I want to have a say in the selections,” says Björklund. “Not everyone can [afford to] drink Raveneau and Rousseau.”
Naturally, the heart of the list is its Burgundy section, comprising nearly 70 percent of all selections. Red Burgundy priced around $100 ($108) is the Bistro’s biggest draw, with Pierre Gelin’s Fixin 2019 ($92), Tollot-Beaut’s Chorey-lès-Beaune 2021 ($92), Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune 2017 ($103) and the Chassagne-Montrachet 2021 ($103) from Bruno Colin among the choices.
All of the top white Burgundy appellations are represented, with picks such as Vincent Dauvissat Chablis 2021 ($97), Pierre Morey Meursault-Perrières 2017 ($395) and Montrachet 2015 ($2,700) from Domaines des Comtes Lafon.
Clearly, prices aren’t inexpensive here, and it’s easy to spend upward of $1,000, with the most expensive bottles on the list weighing in at $21,060: your choice of five different vintages of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Romanée-Conti, from 2012 to 2020. Yet Bistro’s list is still reasonable compared with top Burgundy cellars in New York or Hong Kong.
There are also many verticals spanning up to a decade of vintages, plus the opportunity to indulge in a few older gems such as the Robert Groffier Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 1983 ($1,620), Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny Les Baudes 1997 ($345) and Comte de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 1995 ($2,695).
Champagne lovers can also drink well at Bistro de l’Hôtel, with the featured Champagne by the glass being the most popular with guests. Nonetheless, verticals of cult bubbly producer Cédric Bouchard mingle with Louis Roederer’s Brut Cristal back to the Vinothèque 1995 ($1,890).
Bistro’s other strong suit is France’s Rhône Valley, where one of six vintages of Crozes-Hermitage from Domaine Combier or one of seven of Alain Graillot will set you back only $65 each. The Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 1990 is more of a splurge at $515.
Bistro de l’Hôtel specializes in classic French country cooking. For Björklund, it’s all about sourcing the freshest ingredients in season. “When I was 15, I worked for the famous Swedish chef Bengt Wedholm. He taught me about quality, timing and sourcing ingredients,” Björklund explains. That means oysters from September to April, various mushrooms from April to October, the freshest greens and the famous Bresse chickens.
A signature dish, the poulet de Bresse is roasted to juicy perfection and served tableside. Björklund jokes that if a table sees the chicken wheeled out, they order it, and the pattern continues throughout the evening’s service. Nêmes des langoustines agrodolce, poached eggs with either black truffle or white truffle (depending on the season), and Dover sole are additional specialties of the kitchen.
With its cream, black and natural oak interior, Bistro has a casual yet sophisticated ambience that fits the cuisine—comfortable and never too fussy. The service is professional and friendly, without any pretense, and Björklund is almost always on hand to greet guests and ensure everything runs smoothly. All these elements come together to offer diners one of the best Burgundian experiences in the region. After all, isn’t that the main reason to visit Beaune?
Le Bistro de l’Hôtel
L’Hôtel de Beaune, 5 Rue Samuel Legay, Beaune, France
Telephone: (33) 3-80-25-94-10
Website: lhoteldebeaune.com
